As it is with all blogs (which are meant to be diaries or journals), the most recent entry is at the top. This means that our grand trip to Italy in June 2010 - Venice, Florence, Cinque Terre and our two-week stay at Palazzo Catalani in the non tourist town of Soriano nel Cimino (from which we explored Umbria, Tuscany, Lazio, and Rome) - begins at the end.
The final entry describes Palazzo Catalani and Soriano nel Cimino; however, there are additional entries that tell about market day in Soriano, the Tour of Soriano nel Cimino with Floriana, and the Taste of Tuscia - also with Floriana - which involved wine and olive oil tasting and a pasta and pizza making and eating day with Floriana's mother, Mama Maria.
The blog was completed in February 2011 - it took a long time to write about our adventures and prepare the slideshow of photos! Each written journal entry is preceded by a slideshow that is housed in Picasa. Click on the photo thumbnail, and when it takes you to Picasa, select slideshow in the upper left quandrant. The default is 3 seconds and you can manually change that to a longer time if desired.
Each entry has been manually dated to occur on the correct date. To skip to an entry, look in the blog archive down the left hand side. The entries for Venice occur in May.
I hope you enjoy the blog and that it provides information to make your travels full of adventure, free of worry, and fun. It brought me a lot of joy to relive my memories. It's definitely a bit long but I really only did it to please myself. Feel free to email me if you have questions or comments.
Sunday, February 27, 2011
Friday, June 18, 2010
Palazzo Catalani and Opera Night - June 18, 2010
Palazzo Catalani - To stay at the Palazzo Catalani - a beautifully restored 17th century palace with 20 guest rooms - was an incredible experience. It really was an absolute dream to be here for two full weeks. Soriano nel Cimino was a beautiful, bustling, medieval, lively little town and the Palazzo was right in the middle of it - just a couple blocks from the central piazza. When we first arrived, it was dark and there was a large function going on at the church, so there was no extra parking although we snagged what we hoped was a valid parking spot. Pointing to the car, Kay asked a young man walking by, "es ok?" He replied in good English that it is ok for now because the police have gone home and won't be writing any tickets. As long as we move it early in the morning, we're ok. Since we plan to head out at 5 a.m. to L'Infiorate (flower festival) in Spello, we consider ourselves safe. Next, we try to find the Palazzo and we're not even sure we're even close. Just as Kay asks another resident, "Palazzo Catalani?" Bob finds the little wooden sign. (Everyone in Soriano knows the Palazzo.) We huff and puff up the steep drive/road and check in. Unfortunately, the cart driver just left so we will have to haul our bags up and down the hills ourselves. It's not like we haven't done it before! The next day, we find the parking lot where we park the car from here on out.
Our room is absolutely stunning with soaring, painted ceilings. There's a four-poster canopy bed with wispy curtains along with two large windows that have the original paned casements and shutters. There's two comfy sitting chairs, table and chairs, wardrobe, microwave and cupboard of cooking and eating utensils, and a makeup table/desk, plus a tiny mini bar kitchen with little sink, fridge, hot plate, and coffee maker. The modern gleaming bathroom has a large pedestal sink, toilet and bidet, and a seven-foot tub with shower. And it is all as clean and beautiful as can be with tons of charm and the feeling of a 17th century palace. The views from the main sitting area outside our room look out on the Orsini castle, town, and the soaring views beyond the valley. Everyone at the Palazzo speaks English very well but you won't find it as much in town.
Even though we're on the ground floor, our windows are high off walkways so we throw open both windows at night to let in the fresh, clear air. In the evening and the morning we look out the windows to see huge flocks of swallows swooping and diving in large groups as they they feed. There are two Palazzo kitties: Twinkletoes, the old black and white kitty, and Mr. Diamond (we call him DD), the young yellow kitty. We always bring cat treats and these two quickly learn to whom the hand that feeds them belongs.
On the ground floor is the entrance to the restaurant (we never ate there) and the small grassy back yard with covered patio and white lawn furniture. We ate many dinners down here of our takeout pizza and freshly made salad with local wine.
We've described the town a bit more in the "Tour of Soriano" entry. We spent a fair amount of time in the main square watching people of all ages. People live close together here and they take pleasure from hanging out with each other every day. This is definitely a family community. People seem to shop local and buy fresh food - produce, meat, cheese, bread - nearly daily from the tiny specialty stores. No chain stores here except a very small supermarket called COOP. Perhaps one regret is that we didn't have more time to try any of the restaurants. We usually got home late and wanted to relax in quiet on the lawn. We certainly learned where to buy our takeout pizza, though. A couple of times we walked through the tiny, twisting, alleyways, never knowing if we would find our way out (we always did). There are no sidewalks and pedestrians step out of the way or the cars go around. All streets are very narrow, often with 45-degree turns on blind corners. Everyone manages somehow.
Evening Opera - On our last evening, we have signed up to attend the opera. We know that Floriana will be performing and we are eager to see her. Plus, we've read many reviews about how great the performances are. Everyone gathers in the second floor sitting room and we are treated to the inaugural performance of an opera written by Floriana and friends. To think that they have written this - music, words, characters - is amazing. Indeed, the vocals and performance appears to be flawless. Even Anette (see Taste of Tuscia entry) has come to see the performance and she has tears running down her pretty face she is so moved. How can we be sitting here in Palazzo Catalani, in Soriano nel Cimino, in Italy, listening to these stunning voices?! It is truly a spectacular climax to our Italian dream of a trip.
Buona Notte e Arrivederci - The sun has set and the castle is lighted against the clear dark sky. The quirky air raid siren has finished for the day and the stars are out. No doubt people are hanging out in the piazza - because that is what they do - it has always been that way. The Italian residents in Soriano nel Cimino appear to live thoroughly modern lives in this quaint little town. They seem to be more connected to their past and history - I suppose, because they are living in it. And that's exactly what Americans find so delightful about Italy. With any luck, we'll be back!
Our room is absolutely stunning with soaring, painted ceilings. There's a four-poster canopy bed with wispy curtains along with two large windows that have the original paned casements and shutters. There's two comfy sitting chairs, table and chairs, wardrobe, microwave and cupboard of cooking and eating utensils, and a makeup table/desk, plus a tiny mini bar kitchen with little sink, fridge, hot plate, and coffee maker. The modern gleaming bathroom has a large pedestal sink, toilet and bidet, and a seven-foot tub with shower. And it is all as clean and beautiful as can be with tons of charm and the feeling of a 17th century palace. The views from the main sitting area outside our room look out on the Orsini castle, town, and the soaring views beyond the valley. Everyone at the Palazzo speaks English very well but you won't find it as much in town.
Even though we're on the ground floor, our windows are high off walkways so we throw open both windows at night to let in the fresh, clear air. In the evening and the morning we look out the windows to see huge flocks of swallows swooping and diving in large groups as they they feed. There are two Palazzo kitties: Twinkletoes, the old black and white kitty, and Mr. Diamond (we call him DD), the young yellow kitty. We always bring cat treats and these two quickly learn to whom the hand that feeds them belongs.
On the ground floor is the entrance to the restaurant (we never ate there) and the small grassy back yard with covered patio and white lawn furniture. We ate many dinners down here of our takeout pizza and freshly made salad with local wine.
We've described the town a bit more in the "Tour of Soriano" entry. We spent a fair amount of time in the main square watching people of all ages. People live close together here and they take pleasure from hanging out with each other every day. This is definitely a family community. People seem to shop local and buy fresh food - produce, meat, cheese, bread - nearly daily from the tiny specialty stores. No chain stores here except a very small supermarket called COOP. Perhaps one regret is that we didn't have more time to try any of the restaurants. We usually got home late and wanted to relax in quiet on the lawn. We certainly learned where to buy our takeout pizza, though. A couple of times we walked through the tiny, twisting, alleyways, never knowing if we would find our way out (we always did). There are no sidewalks and pedestrians step out of the way or the cars go around. All streets are very narrow, often with 45-degree turns on blind corners. Everyone manages somehow.
Evening Opera - On our last evening, we have signed up to attend the opera. We know that Floriana will be performing and we are eager to see her. Plus, we've read many reviews about how great the performances are. Everyone gathers in the second floor sitting room and we are treated to the inaugural performance of an opera written by Floriana and friends. To think that they have written this - music, words, characters - is amazing. Indeed, the vocals and performance appears to be flawless. Even Anette (see Taste of Tuscia entry) has come to see the performance and she has tears running down her pretty face she is so moved. How can we be sitting here in Palazzo Catalani, in Soriano nel Cimino, in Italy, listening to these stunning voices?! It is truly a spectacular climax to our Italian dream of a trip.
Buona Notte e Arrivederci - The sun has set and the castle is lighted against the clear dark sky. The quirky air raid siren has finished for the day and the stars are out. No doubt people are hanging out in the piazza - because that is what they do - it has always been that way. The Italian residents in Soriano nel Cimino appear to live thoroughly modern lives in this quaint little town. They seem to be more connected to their past and history - I suppose, because they are living in it. And that's exactly what Americans find so delightful about Italy. With any luck, we'll be back!
Thursday, June 17, 2010
Viterbo, Marta, Capodimonti, Lake Bolsena, Deruta - June 17 & 18, 2010
Deruta (June 17) - We are headed to Deruta (about 45 minutes) in hopes of buying some hand-painted Italian pottery. Indeed, there are tons of shops all selling pottery and it is obvious that this is the town's primary source of income. There are new and old portions of town and we explored them all. Naturally, we seem to be out and about during the afternoon, when shops are quiet or closed altogether. Nevertheless, there is plenty of pottery to look at - most of it exquisite and much of it very expensive. It's not a place to pick up some gifts for the kids. We have a quiet and delicious lunch there and end up with a couple of small painted dishes for ourselves. We got home in time to take a walk around Soriano and enjoy a cheap and quiet pizza dinner on the lawn.
Viterbo (June 18) - Our time in Italy is coming to an end. We've seen and done a lot. We could take a long trip to Ostia Antica, Tivoli Gardens, or head to some ruins at Ferento. But Bob has done all the driving and he isn't keen to go a long way in high traffic. Besides, we've seen plenty of ruins or, as Justin would say, "another pile of rocks." There are usually few explanations to go with the rocks so one has no idea of the significance. We head to Viterbo to the San Pellegrino district, which is considered one of the best preserved medieval quarters in Italy. We take a peek at the Palazzo Papale (Papal Palace) which served as the Vatican in the 13th century during troubled times in Rome. Luckily, we drove straight to a public parking area that allows us to get out and walk to the cathedral and papal palace. Although the cathedral is open, nothing else is and things seem strangely deserted for a Thursday. We don't spend too much time here and head off for Lake Bolsena.
Marta - Our first stop is the small fishing town of Marta, 25 miles from Soriano. It has a beautiful setting on the lake with a lovely walkway that we wander along. Annette has mentioned there are wonderful restaurants along here that serve pasta with a fish that comes only from Lake Bolsena and a particular red wine (cannaiola) in certain restaurants. None of the restaurants look terribly busy so we pick one and Bob orders the pasta with the special fish while Kay sticks to the fabulous porcini pasta that doesn't fail to disappoint. Bob is served a pile of pasta with a fish about the size of a sardine on top. It must be a baby version of the famous fish. It's barely enough for a taste! We don't remember if we got the special wine or not. It seems as if every area is known for a special wine and it is impossible to keep them straight.
Capodimonte - Since this little town is only nine miles away, we decide to check it out. Street parking is easy and we end up by the Rocca Farnese (kind of a palace). An English tour group is heading up the street to the palace and the English-speaking Italian guide invites us to come along. The views of the lake are spectacular. There is a large beach and boat area here which would make it a great place for swimming - if one was so inclined. The tour guide tells us that there is a wonderful hydrangea festival being held in Bolsena - on the other side of the lake - and we should go there. She promises lots of beautiful flowers and shrubbery trimmed out in animal shapes. Since it is probably not more than 30 minutes away, we decide to drive the scenic route around the lake.
Bolsena - The scenic drive was, indeed, scenic. We pass through Montefiascone, which is well known for its white wine, Est! Est! Est! We had a bottle of this for dinner one night and it was light and sweet. We keep on going to Bolsena and, luckily, find a safe, marked-with-a-blue-P parking spot and meter. Bolsena is a charming town and there are many flowers for sale and hydrangeas in bloom, but it is more like a farmer's market than a big festival. We only saw a couple of very small topiaries. Still, Bolsena's setting on the lake is beautiful, the town seems a little more upscale, and it is a great day just to wander around enjoying the weather.
Opera Night at the Palazzo - We end our evening with the infamous opera night at the Palazzo, which will be covered in the last day and section titled, Palazzo Catalani.
Viterbo (June 18) - Our time in Italy is coming to an end. We've seen and done a lot. We could take a long trip to Ostia Antica, Tivoli Gardens, or head to some ruins at Ferento. But Bob has done all the driving and he isn't keen to go a long way in high traffic. Besides, we've seen plenty of ruins or, as Justin would say, "another pile of rocks." There are usually few explanations to go with the rocks so one has no idea of the significance. We head to Viterbo to the San Pellegrino district, which is considered one of the best preserved medieval quarters in Italy. We take a peek at the Palazzo Papale (Papal Palace) which served as the Vatican in the 13th century during troubled times in Rome. Luckily, we drove straight to a public parking area that allows us to get out and walk to the cathedral and papal palace. Although the cathedral is open, nothing else is and things seem strangely deserted for a Thursday. We don't spend too much time here and head off for Lake Bolsena.
Marta - Our first stop is the small fishing town of Marta, 25 miles from Soriano. It has a beautiful setting on the lake with a lovely walkway that we wander along. Annette has mentioned there are wonderful restaurants along here that serve pasta with a fish that comes only from Lake Bolsena and a particular red wine (cannaiola) in certain restaurants. None of the restaurants look terribly busy so we pick one and Bob orders the pasta with the special fish while Kay sticks to the fabulous porcini pasta that doesn't fail to disappoint. Bob is served a pile of pasta with a fish about the size of a sardine on top. It must be a baby version of the famous fish. It's barely enough for a taste! We don't remember if we got the special wine or not. It seems as if every area is known for a special wine and it is impossible to keep them straight.
Capodimonte - Since this little town is only nine miles away, we decide to check it out. Street parking is easy and we end up by the Rocca Farnese (kind of a palace). An English tour group is heading up the street to the palace and the English-speaking Italian guide invites us to come along. The views of the lake are spectacular. There is a large beach and boat area here which would make it a great place for swimming - if one was so inclined. The tour guide tells us that there is a wonderful hydrangea festival being held in Bolsena - on the other side of the lake - and we should go there. She promises lots of beautiful flowers and shrubbery trimmed out in animal shapes. Since it is probably not more than 30 minutes away, we decide to drive the scenic route around the lake.
Bolsena - The scenic drive was, indeed, scenic. We pass through Montefiascone, which is well known for its white wine, Est! Est! Est! We had a bottle of this for dinner one night and it was light and sweet. We keep on going to Bolsena and, luckily, find a safe, marked-with-a-blue-P parking spot and meter. Bolsena is a charming town and there are many flowers for sale and hydrangeas in bloom, but it is more like a farmer's market than a big festival. We only saw a couple of very small topiaries. Still, Bolsena's setting on the lake is beautiful, the town seems a little more upscale, and it is a great day just to wander around enjoying the weather.
Opera Night at the Palazzo - We end our evening with the infamous opera night at the Palazzo, which will be covered in the last day and section titled, Palazzo Catalani.
Wednesday, June 16, 2010
Taste of Tuscia - Memories with Mama Maria - June 16, 2010
It's another beautiful morning in Italy as we gather in the lobby with a large group of lodgers who are all taking part in the "Taste of Tuscia" adventure with Floriana. We have read of the many delights of this in the postings on Trip Advisor. It seems like yet another Italian dream come true to experience a cooking lesson with Mama Maria, Floriana's mother. Timing is on our side as this is the first cooking session of the season with Mama. One week earlier and we would have missed it - with great disappointment, for sure.
City Bus Ride - First, we amble down through the main square to meet up at the bus stop. Yes, we are taking the city bus to the first stop for a wine tasting. A couple ladies were a bit pokey and we lost them along the way so there was a scramble to find them before the bus comes. Luckily, they are found in the nick of time. Floriana hands over our bus passes and off we wander into the countryside on a nice clean, modern bus. It seems odd to be riding the public bus rather than a private van, but there are so many of us, that it is the eco-friendly way to go and it keeps the cost down.
Wine Tasting - We hop off at a wine producing business with a tasting room that compares somewhat with those seen in eastern Washington, western Oregon, and Livermore, Calif., but definitely less plush than Napa Valley. We prefer the less ostentatious so this suits us just fine. Just like any tasting, we begin with lower price wines and end with higher price wines. The grapes are native to this area and are certainly drinkable.
Soon we walk down the country road the length of about four or five blocks back to a bus stop. There are no sidewalks and the ditch is right there so we walk on the road. It feels a little dangerous but there are very few cars and the ones that drive by go around us. Along the way we pass by a gate warning to beware of the dogs - the noses of which stick through the fence and the tails of which wag their haunches. Ferocious, my foot.
Firing up the Oven - The bus comes and we head off to our next stop for a cooking lesson at Mama Maria's. What a delightful place! It's an ordinary house set amid a large yard or property of olive trees. The living quarters are on the second floor; and underneath this level is a large covered and shady open air patio with a small kitchen sink area chockablock with pots and pans, soap, towels, aprons, and other implements of cooking. A sensible arrangement. On the way into the yard, we pass the large brick pizza oven roaring with a fire. Mama and Papa don't speak English and the word spreads around to wash our hands and put on an apron. Mine has yellow lemons and Bob gets a ruffled pink one. He is a good sport and gamely ties it on. The first thing that must be done is mix the pizza dough. A strong young man volunteers to mix up a batch with Mama and there is no shortage of teasing and laughter. The dough sets aside to rise.
Pasta Chefs - It takes three shifts of chefs to get a turn at mixing a batch of pasta dough at one of the several long tables set up in the patio. The eggs go in the middle of each flour pile and are whisked in until the dough is very moist. Once it is kneaded with lots of extra flour, it is formed into little balls and pricked with our initials and set aside to rest.
Elixir of the Gods - While waiting for the next activity, we entertain ourselves throwing the ball into the olive grove for an eager dog to chase. Meanwhile, Floriana is setting up a white cloth-covered table with bottles of olive oil. Eventually, everyone gathers round to learn about olive oil from a local producer: the process, the certification, the pressing, and bottling. Frantoio Cioccolini has been a family business since 1890 although they increased the size of the mill and, in 1963, invested in mechanized equipment to press oil for other farmers. The owner tells us that the olive oil pressing has been more like a hobby, as he could not have made a living from it. He does it full time now that he has retired from AlItalia Airlines. He pours liberal samples of the oil on bread for us to taste (all olive oil is liberally poured in Italy) and we are offered opportunity to buy several bottles in various sizes. Kay snatches up a fair share of the extra virgin oil (which costs a mint in the U.S.) for gifts. (Bob worries about getting the weight home in our suitcases!)
Pasta Sauce Prep - Back to the patio we head to prepare the pasta sauce. Bob missed out on the pizza dough mixing so he jumps right in beside Mama Maria to chop and prepare the sauce with a bit of onion, celery, carrot, fresh basil, and tomato sauce (the house brand from the Coop). All gets added to an extra large pot on the propane-fired cooktop in the outdoor kitchen in the olive grove.
That's Amore - Mama Maria keeps us on schedule spreading out the pizza dough in pans. The toppings are all vegetarian with very little cheese and no meat. Our favorites are the shredded onion and the thinly sliced potato with fresh rosemary. Pan after pan gets placed in the pizza oven. When done, out they come and cut into small pieces with scissors by Mama's friend who is on hand to help. We only saw scissors being used to cut pizza throughout our travels - never a pizza cutter. It is piled on plates and everyone begins to work through them - with glasses of wine or water to wash it down.
Sing a Song of Pasta - It is time to roll out the pasta dough, and just when it seems as if it can't be rolled any thinner, Mama comes along and stretches it some more. Then it gets wrapped around the rolling pin which is basically a thick, smooth, round cylinder of wood. By this time, Bob has become Mama's sidekick and she breaks out into song trying to get him to sing "Volare" and several other recognizable tunes. What Mama doesn't realize is that Bob is tone deaf and couldn't sing a note to save his soul if he had to. It's pretty funny to watch him fake it. (Remember the funny lyrics to Dean Martin's song? "When the moon hits your eye like a big pizza pie, That's amore. When the world seems to shine like you've had too much wine. That's amore. Bells will ring ting-a-ling-a-ling, ting-a-ling-a-ling. And you'll sing "Vita bella." Hearts will play tippy-tippy-tay, tippy-tippy-tay. Like a gay tarantella..")
New Friends - By this time, an English-speaking British/German friend of Floriana's has joined us. Floriana demonstrates different ways to cut the noodles and different shapes that can be made. We get busy cutting and uncurling the pasta into fettuccini lengths and loosely curling it into nests. Floriana takes a break and her charming friend, Anette, takes over translating and explaining techniques. I can't quite place her accent and discover that darling Anette is actually German but lived and run a business in England for years. She has retired to Soriano nel Cimino and has become one of the locals and a good friend of Floriana and her family.
Tasty Brown Lumps - Next, Mama makes chocolate hazelnut biscotti. All the ingredients are measured by weight. She dumps in a large bag of whole hazelnuts that would cost a fortune here. They are dropped by spoonfuls onto parchment-lined pans that go out to cook in the pizza oven.
Supper Time - The pasta has piled up and is carted off to the olive grove kitchen for boiling. The dogs are eagerly awaiting their share. The patio tables have been cleared and set with plates and silverware. Wine flows and everyone is warm, well fed, and happy surrounded by our new friends from around the world.
Day is Done - Dessert is the chocolate biscotti drops accompanied by homemade limoncello (yum!). All too soon it is time to hop back on the bus for the ride back to Soriano. Writing about this day brings back wonderful memories - hopefully, the photos show the flavor of a day filled with food and love.
City Bus Ride - First, we amble down through the main square to meet up at the bus stop. Yes, we are taking the city bus to the first stop for a wine tasting. A couple ladies were a bit pokey and we lost them along the way so there was a scramble to find them before the bus comes. Luckily, they are found in the nick of time. Floriana hands over our bus passes and off we wander into the countryside on a nice clean, modern bus. It seems odd to be riding the public bus rather than a private van, but there are so many of us, that it is the eco-friendly way to go and it keeps the cost down.
Wine Tasting - We hop off at a wine producing business with a tasting room that compares somewhat with those seen in eastern Washington, western Oregon, and Livermore, Calif., but definitely less plush than Napa Valley. We prefer the less ostentatious so this suits us just fine. Just like any tasting, we begin with lower price wines and end with higher price wines. The grapes are native to this area and are certainly drinkable.
Soon we walk down the country road the length of about four or five blocks back to a bus stop. There are no sidewalks and the ditch is right there so we walk on the road. It feels a little dangerous but there are very few cars and the ones that drive by go around us. Along the way we pass by a gate warning to beware of the dogs - the noses of which stick through the fence and the tails of which wag their haunches. Ferocious, my foot.
Firing up the Oven - The bus comes and we head off to our next stop for a cooking lesson at Mama Maria's. What a delightful place! It's an ordinary house set amid a large yard or property of olive trees. The living quarters are on the second floor; and underneath this level is a large covered and shady open air patio with a small kitchen sink area chockablock with pots and pans, soap, towels, aprons, and other implements of cooking. A sensible arrangement. On the way into the yard, we pass the large brick pizza oven roaring with a fire. Mama and Papa don't speak English and the word spreads around to wash our hands and put on an apron. Mine has yellow lemons and Bob gets a ruffled pink one. He is a good sport and gamely ties it on. The first thing that must be done is mix the pizza dough. A strong young man volunteers to mix up a batch with Mama and there is no shortage of teasing and laughter. The dough sets aside to rise.
Pasta Chefs - It takes three shifts of chefs to get a turn at mixing a batch of pasta dough at one of the several long tables set up in the patio. The eggs go in the middle of each flour pile and are whisked in until the dough is very moist. Once it is kneaded with lots of extra flour, it is formed into little balls and pricked with our initials and set aside to rest.
Elixir of the Gods - While waiting for the next activity, we entertain ourselves throwing the ball into the olive grove for an eager dog to chase. Meanwhile, Floriana is setting up a white cloth-covered table with bottles of olive oil. Eventually, everyone gathers round to learn about olive oil from a local producer: the process, the certification, the pressing, and bottling. Frantoio Cioccolini has been a family business since 1890 although they increased the size of the mill and, in 1963, invested in mechanized equipment to press oil for other farmers. The owner tells us that the olive oil pressing has been more like a hobby, as he could not have made a living from it. He does it full time now that he has retired from AlItalia Airlines. He pours liberal samples of the oil on bread for us to taste (all olive oil is liberally poured in Italy) and we are offered opportunity to buy several bottles in various sizes. Kay snatches up a fair share of the extra virgin oil (which costs a mint in the U.S.) for gifts. (Bob worries about getting the weight home in our suitcases!)
Pasta Sauce Prep - Back to the patio we head to prepare the pasta sauce. Bob missed out on the pizza dough mixing so he jumps right in beside Mama Maria to chop and prepare the sauce with a bit of onion, celery, carrot, fresh basil, and tomato sauce (the house brand from the Coop). All gets added to an extra large pot on the propane-fired cooktop in the outdoor kitchen in the olive grove.
That's Amore - Mama Maria keeps us on schedule spreading out the pizza dough in pans. The toppings are all vegetarian with very little cheese and no meat. Our favorites are the shredded onion and the thinly sliced potato with fresh rosemary. Pan after pan gets placed in the pizza oven. When done, out they come and cut into small pieces with scissors by Mama's friend who is on hand to help. We only saw scissors being used to cut pizza throughout our travels - never a pizza cutter. It is piled on plates and everyone begins to work through them - with glasses of wine or water to wash it down.
Sing a Song of Pasta - It is time to roll out the pasta dough, and just when it seems as if it can't be rolled any thinner, Mama comes along and stretches it some more. Then it gets wrapped around the rolling pin which is basically a thick, smooth, round cylinder of wood. By this time, Bob has become Mama's sidekick and she breaks out into song trying to get him to sing "Volare" and several other recognizable tunes. What Mama doesn't realize is that Bob is tone deaf and couldn't sing a note to save his soul if he had to. It's pretty funny to watch him fake it. (Remember the funny lyrics to Dean Martin's song? "When the moon hits your eye like a big pizza pie, That's amore. When the world seems to shine like you've had too much wine. That's amore. Bells will ring ting-a-ling-a-ling, ting-a-ling-a-ling. And you'll sing "Vita bella." Hearts will play tippy-tippy-tay, tippy-tippy-tay. Like a gay tarantella..")
New Friends - By this time, an English-speaking British/German friend of Floriana's has joined us. Floriana demonstrates different ways to cut the noodles and different shapes that can be made. We get busy cutting and uncurling the pasta into fettuccini lengths and loosely curling it into nests. Floriana takes a break and her charming friend, Anette, takes over translating and explaining techniques. I can't quite place her accent and discover that darling Anette is actually German but lived and run a business in England for years. She has retired to Soriano nel Cimino and has become one of the locals and a good friend of Floriana and her family.
Tasty Brown Lumps - Next, Mama makes chocolate hazelnut biscotti. All the ingredients are measured by weight. She dumps in a large bag of whole hazelnuts that would cost a fortune here. They are dropped by spoonfuls onto parchment-lined pans that go out to cook in the pizza oven.
Supper Time - The pasta has piled up and is carted off to the olive grove kitchen for boiling. The dogs are eagerly awaiting their share. The patio tables have been cleared and set with plates and silverware. Wine flows and everyone is warm, well fed, and happy surrounded by our new friends from around the world.
Day is Done - Dessert is the chocolate biscotti drops accompanied by homemade limoncello (yum!). All too soon it is time to hop back on the bus for the ride back to Soriano. Writing about this day brings back wonderful memories - hopefully, the photos show the flavor of a day filled with food and love.
Tuesday, June 15, 2010
Vatican Tour - June 15, 2010
Vatican Bound - We are now old hands at taking the train into Rome Termini and today, we're going in for a five-hour Through Eternity tour of the Vatican Museums and Saint Peter's Basilica. Last week's Rome guide, Jason, made sure that we would find our way to the meeting spot via the metro. His help gave us much confidence! Jason has warned us that our tour will take us to a very expensive lunch spot - so we thought we'd be smart and buy some sandwiches at the Termini grocery store.
Through Eternity - The tour meeting spot is located a few blocks from the Vatican at the church in Piazza Santa Maria delle Grazie. When everyone shows up, we are a very small group of about 8. Our guide is Brandon, a Canadian who is a PhD student from Oxford studying art history and Latin. What a treat to have such an expert as a guide, and especially one who speaks very clear English! On our walk to the Vatican (about 5 blocks), the mist experienced earlier in the day descends into a good rain. It's a bummer, but Bob and I are well protected with our packable raincoats. Plus, we are wearing the required "modest dress" (covered knees and shoulders) in the Vatican. (Through Eternity has an excellent description of the entire tour.)
A Country of Its Own - Vatican City is a tiny, independent country of about 100 acres in the middle of Rome. It is the religious capital of 1.1 million Roman Catholics around the world. Because we paid for a tour, we walk past all the people waiting in line for entry. Brandon collects additional money for entry fee and headsets. The headsets are fabulous because Brandon doesn't have to shout and we can clearly hear him all the better (something we worried about) for his explanations, stories, and when to move on.
Pinoteca - First, we head to the Pinoteca (picture) art gallery as there are fewer people at this time. Brandon points out the imitation Pieta and tells us the differences between this one and the real one we'll see in St. Peter's Basilica. As we walk past ancient sculptures, he translates the Latin inscriptions. There is much beautiful art on display and Brandon makes it all come alive. Once we get to the tapestries, he moves us on past them as he says they are "boring" and there are better ways to spend our time. We feel like we're moving through at a pretty good pace - and we're on the long tour. I can't imagine doing the short tour.
Cheap Lunch - For the lunch break, Brandon takes us to the Vatican cafeteria where they offer choices of pizza, sandwiches, and a hot buffet line with lots of tables scattered around. Maybe other tours take you to expensive restaurants, but we find that the cafeteria prices are less expensive than cart food we've seen elsewhere: $3/pizza slice, $2.50/sandwich. It's another thumbs up for Through Eternity - nevertheless, we eat our cheap, dry supermarket sandwiches instead. Who knows? The cafeteria might be as bad.
Pine Cone Courtyard - After about 40 minutes, we reconvene and head outside - where it is now bright and sunny - for background about the Raphael Rooms, the Sistine Chapel by Michelangelo, the crypt of Popes, and St. Peter's Basilica. In the large grassy courtyard there is the large shiny metal "Sphere within a Sphere" created in 1990 by Italian Sculptor Arnaldo Pomodoro in the Cortile Della Pigna - (courtyard of the pine cone). The pine cone in question is a four-metre high bronze statue, from around the first century AD, which originally resided in the Pantheon. It was in the old St Peter's before being moved to a raised plinth here by Julius II. Set before a huge, scooped arch in the walls of the Vatican (designed by Bramante), it dominates the courtyard.
Competitive Artists - Our next stop is an open air rotunda of statutes tucked in niches followed by an indoor rotunda with mosaic tiled floors, religious murals, and precious carved stone antiquities. Back outside we walk down the courtyard to enter the Raphael Rooms - and are awestruck by the proliferation of brilliantly colored frescoes. They overwhelm the senses with color and imagery. Each square foot is a masterpiece in itself and it is impossible to capture in photos. Apparently, Raphael was a competitive guy as he did his best to outdo Michelangelo's Sistine Chapel, which depicts the Renaissance and story of creation.
Pristine Sistine - We are warned by the room guardians to be quiet so that everyone can enjoy the peace and sacredness as the Sistine is the Pope's personal chapel and where all new popes are selected. Indeed, guards warn people to be quiet and take no photos (although we sneak in a quick couple - especially of the "Last Judgment" and altar - in order to compare/contrast Raphael and Michelangelo's works when our memory fades) as they are not allowed by the Japanese company that paid for the restoration of the "Last Judgment" behind the altar. The room is packed with people. Even so, we are in the right place at the right time as someone else vacates two seats on a bench. We wish we had brought binoculars as recommended by Rick Steves, but the view is still awe-inspiring. It took Michelangelo four years to complete the work begun when he was 33.
St. Peter's Basilica - Before he said goodbye and released us to explore the Basilica on our own, Brandon give us the highlights. (We give him a $20 tip - I think we're the only ones - because he really did a great job on the tour.) We find ourselves in the church of all churches and it is hard to describe the grandeur and size other than it is mammoth and occupies six acres. Naturally, it is the most magnificent of them all, and can accommodate 60,000 standing worshippers. There are incredible sculptures and art by Michelangelo, Raphael and Bernini - much of it is done in mosaic. The dome echoes the heavens and the aisle ways are lines with columns and arches that are adorned with layers of gilt and plaster or marble angels and statuary. Every inch is filled with incredible art. Understated would not be a descriptor. Perhaps tasteful flamboyance might work.
There is so much to take in and one wants to remember every detail from the "kissable toe" of St. Peter to Bernini's seven-story tall bronze canopy and starburst dove window behind it. Michelangelo's original Pieta is on display and it glows with an inner light not seen in the fake Pieta in the Pinoteca. Hard to believe he was such a genius at only age 24. We completely forgot about climbing up in the dome, which is taller than a football field is long. We go through the crypt where all former popes are buried. There are many people in this reverent and quiet space praying - especially at the crypt of the beloved "Great" Pope John Paul II.
Arrivederci Roma - It seems as if we have absorbed as much as our senses can take but the leaving is hard. It would be wonderful to return sometime and renew our memories. For one last time, we end the day with our traditional gelato at Old Bridge Gelateria, only a couple blocks outside the walls of the Vatican. Perfect end to a sumptuous day. We hop the train for the last time from Rome Termini to the Orte Station and back home.
Through Eternity - The tour meeting spot is located a few blocks from the Vatican at the church in Piazza Santa Maria delle Grazie. When everyone shows up, we are a very small group of about 8. Our guide is Brandon, a Canadian who is a PhD student from Oxford studying art history and Latin. What a treat to have such an expert as a guide, and especially one who speaks very clear English! On our walk to the Vatican (about 5 blocks), the mist experienced earlier in the day descends into a good rain. It's a bummer, but Bob and I are well protected with our packable raincoats. Plus, we are wearing the required "modest dress" (covered knees and shoulders) in the Vatican. (Through Eternity has an excellent description of the entire tour.)
A Country of Its Own - Vatican City is a tiny, independent country of about 100 acres in the middle of Rome. It is the religious capital of 1.1 million Roman Catholics around the world. Because we paid for a tour, we walk past all the people waiting in line for entry. Brandon collects additional money for entry fee and headsets. The headsets are fabulous because Brandon doesn't have to shout and we can clearly hear him all the better (something we worried about) for his explanations, stories, and when to move on.
Pinoteca - First, we head to the Pinoteca (picture) art gallery as there are fewer people at this time. Brandon points out the imitation Pieta and tells us the differences between this one and the real one we'll see in St. Peter's Basilica. As we walk past ancient sculptures, he translates the Latin inscriptions. There is much beautiful art on display and Brandon makes it all come alive. Once we get to the tapestries, he moves us on past them as he says they are "boring" and there are better ways to spend our time. We feel like we're moving through at a pretty good pace - and we're on the long tour. I can't imagine doing the short tour.
Cheap Lunch - For the lunch break, Brandon takes us to the Vatican cafeteria where they offer choices of pizza, sandwiches, and a hot buffet line with lots of tables scattered around. Maybe other tours take you to expensive restaurants, but we find that the cafeteria prices are less expensive than cart food we've seen elsewhere: $3/pizza slice, $2.50/sandwich. It's another thumbs up for Through Eternity - nevertheless, we eat our cheap, dry supermarket sandwiches instead. Who knows? The cafeteria might be as bad.
Pine Cone Courtyard - After about 40 minutes, we reconvene and head outside - where it is now bright and sunny - for background about the Raphael Rooms, the Sistine Chapel by Michelangelo, the crypt of Popes, and St. Peter's Basilica. In the large grassy courtyard there is the large shiny metal "Sphere within a Sphere" created in 1990 by Italian Sculptor Arnaldo Pomodoro in the Cortile Della Pigna - (courtyard of the pine cone). The pine cone in question is a four-metre high bronze statue, from around the first century AD, which originally resided in the Pantheon. It was in the old St Peter's before being moved to a raised plinth here by Julius II. Set before a huge, scooped arch in the walls of the Vatican (designed by Bramante), it dominates the courtyard.
Competitive Artists - Our next stop is an open air rotunda of statutes tucked in niches followed by an indoor rotunda with mosaic tiled floors, religious murals, and precious carved stone antiquities. Back outside we walk down the courtyard to enter the Raphael Rooms - and are awestruck by the proliferation of brilliantly colored frescoes. They overwhelm the senses with color and imagery. Each square foot is a masterpiece in itself and it is impossible to capture in photos. Apparently, Raphael was a competitive guy as he did his best to outdo Michelangelo's Sistine Chapel, which depicts the Renaissance and story of creation.
Pristine Sistine - We are warned by the room guardians to be quiet so that everyone can enjoy the peace and sacredness as the Sistine is the Pope's personal chapel and where all new popes are selected. Indeed, guards warn people to be quiet and take no photos (although we sneak in a quick couple - especially of the "Last Judgment" and altar - in order to compare/contrast Raphael and Michelangelo's works when our memory fades) as they are not allowed by the Japanese company that paid for the restoration of the "Last Judgment" behind the altar. The room is packed with people. Even so, we are in the right place at the right time as someone else vacates two seats on a bench. We wish we had brought binoculars as recommended by Rick Steves, but the view is still awe-inspiring. It took Michelangelo four years to complete the work begun when he was 33.
St. Peter's Basilica - Before he said goodbye and released us to explore the Basilica on our own, Brandon give us the highlights. (We give him a $20 tip - I think we're the only ones - because he really did a great job on the tour.) We find ourselves in the church of all churches and it is hard to describe the grandeur and size other than it is mammoth and occupies six acres. Naturally, it is the most magnificent of them all, and can accommodate 60,000 standing worshippers. There are incredible sculptures and art by Michelangelo, Raphael and Bernini - much of it is done in mosaic. The dome echoes the heavens and the aisle ways are lines with columns and arches that are adorned with layers of gilt and plaster or marble angels and statuary. Every inch is filled with incredible art. Understated would not be a descriptor. Perhaps tasteful flamboyance might work.
There is so much to take in and one wants to remember every detail from the "kissable toe" of St. Peter to Bernini's seven-story tall bronze canopy and starburst dove window behind it. Michelangelo's original Pieta is on display and it glows with an inner light not seen in the fake Pieta in the Pinoteca. Hard to believe he was such a genius at only age 24. We completely forgot about climbing up in the dome, which is taller than a football field is long. We go through the crypt where all former popes are buried. There are many people in this reverent and quiet space praying - especially at the crypt of the beloved "Great" Pope John Paul II.
Arrivederci Roma - It seems as if we have absorbed as much as our senses can take but the leaving is hard. It would be wonderful to return sometime and renew our memories. For one last time, we end the day with our traditional gelato at Old Bridge Gelateria, only a couple blocks outside the walls of the Vatican. Perfect end to a sumptuous day. We hop the train for the last time from Rome Termini to the Orte Station and back home.
Monday, June 14, 2010
Backroads of Tuscany - June 14, 2010
Today is a Tuscany road trip day where we will try to cover as many towns and sights as possible gleaned from Rick Steves' books and films and the awesome Travelers Helpline. We had been advised to only cover a maximum of two towns per day in order to enjoy them to their utmost. After this hectic day, I would agree. There is always something unique about each town, and one feels they must not be missed. In truth, it is just like Rick Steves says: to try and see so many is to lose all memory of any of them. They blur together. On the days where we saw only two towns, we have much better memory of them. That said, I'm glad we saw as much as we did. No regrets other than the wish to have more time and to have taken more photos of the towns we visited.
Montepulciano - After heading north on the A1, we took an exit to get us headed on the back roads to Montepulciano. Two hours later, we find a spot to park and head up a hill to town. Despite a GPS, Rick Steves' maps, and printouts of the town streets, it isn't easy to find parking. Sometimes you get stuck on a road not on the map, there's a car hot on your tail, and no place to pull over. The worst fear is getting caught going in a no-car zone. There are few street signs for guiding and it is such a relief to see a sign with a big "P" on it. Once you find parking, it isn't always apparent how to get to "centro" and you can end up "taking the scenic route" - not always a bad thing.
Eventually, we find parking and head into town. There are a couple of shoe stores and another pair of Birkenstocks are purchased from a little shop - black patent and strappy. We end up meandering along some back streets and finally locate the Piazza Grande with the Duomo with the unfinished exterior. We spot a restaurant with an outdoor table right on the square and grab it. We think we've ended up at Ai Quattro Venti, a Rick Steves' recommendation. Bob goes for sausage and beans and Kay selects a tasteless lasagna along with fizzy water and wine - whether it was the infamous vino nobile or not, we don't know. Although the town is cute enough and has lots of old buildings to see, it seems very quiet and we decide to head off to the next stop. We haven't done it justice - a downside of town hopping.
Pienza - This town seems easier to get into - or maybe we just get lucky. We easily find free parking right by a public bathroom (always a plus) and make our way into town. Pienza sits high above a valley but at the top it is flat and would be especially easy for the handicapped to negotiate. It is absolutely darling: as clean, spotless, and filled with flowers as, say, an Austrian town. We never experienced a dirty Italian town, but Pienza seems more fanatical about it. There are fabulous views around the exterior and the narrow streets are fun to wander through. We wander around soaking up the beauty - and seeing many shops selling their infamous cheese rounds aged in straw and mud - for about 90 minutes.
San Quirico d'Orcia - This is another nice small town where we easily find free parking. It is less of a tourist stop and more of an actual town where Tuscans live. We take time to visit a couple of churches, and a park, and wander down the main drag. It is a nice enough little town to wander through but not as picturesque as Pienza.
Bagno Vignoni - This is clearly a resort area with hot springs and spas (bagno means bath). It doesn't have much of a town but in the middle of what there is contains a large square with a big pool that isn't swimmable.
Vespers in the Abby - We spend a couple of hours driving around the scenic Tuscan countryside with Bob graciously pulling over whenever I spot something that looks like a good photo. We end up driving to San Antimo Abby (Abbazia di Sant'Antimo) whose beginnings came around the 12th century or earlier. A small contingent of monks (about 10) live in residence; they pray regularly throughout the day. We are in time for vespers and the monks' sonorous tones echo in the high ceiling of the church. It is a full, spiritual experience which we are grateful to have experienced.
Val d'Orcia - The sun is beginning to get lower and we want to head for the Palazzo before it gets pitch black. Up and down the winding golden hills we go. We pull into a rest stop and, before our eyes, heading up out of the dusky Val d'Orcia (valley), is the famous winding road with Plane trees lining it that one sees in countless photos and paintings about Tuscany. We had no idea we were in the right area but by this time, the light is bad and the photos are merely for memory and eventual wall display. It has been a long day, packed with many sights, and we are exceedingly grateful to get back to Soriano much too late at 10 p.m. Tomorrow will be a long day with our Secret Itineraries tour of the Vatican in Rome.
Montepulciano - After heading north on the A1, we took an exit to get us headed on the back roads to Montepulciano. Two hours later, we find a spot to park and head up a hill to town. Despite a GPS, Rick Steves' maps, and printouts of the town streets, it isn't easy to find parking. Sometimes you get stuck on a road not on the map, there's a car hot on your tail, and no place to pull over. The worst fear is getting caught going in a no-car zone. There are few street signs for guiding and it is such a relief to see a sign with a big "P" on it. Once you find parking, it isn't always apparent how to get to "centro" and you can end up "taking the scenic route" - not always a bad thing.
Eventually, we find parking and head into town. There are a couple of shoe stores and another pair of Birkenstocks are purchased from a little shop - black patent and strappy. We end up meandering along some back streets and finally locate the Piazza Grande with the Duomo with the unfinished exterior. We spot a restaurant with an outdoor table right on the square and grab it. We think we've ended up at Ai Quattro Venti, a Rick Steves' recommendation. Bob goes for sausage and beans and Kay selects a tasteless lasagna along with fizzy water and wine - whether it was the infamous vino nobile or not, we don't know. Although the town is cute enough and has lots of old buildings to see, it seems very quiet and we decide to head off to the next stop. We haven't done it justice - a downside of town hopping.
Pienza - This town seems easier to get into - or maybe we just get lucky. We easily find free parking right by a public bathroom (always a plus) and make our way into town. Pienza sits high above a valley but at the top it is flat and would be especially easy for the handicapped to negotiate. It is absolutely darling: as clean, spotless, and filled with flowers as, say, an Austrian town. We never experienced a dirty Italian town, but Pienza seems more fanatical about it. There are fabulous views around the exterior and the narrow streets are fun to wander through. We wander around soaking up the beauty - and seeing many shops selling their infamous cheese rounds aged in straw and mud - for about 90 minutes.
San Quirico d'Orcia - This is another nice small town where we easily find free parking. It is less of a tourist stop and more of an actual town where Tuscans live. We take time to visit a couple of churches, and a park, and wander down the main drag. It is a nice enough little town to wander through but not as picturesque as Pienza.
Bagno Vignoni - This is clearly a resort area with hot springs and spas (bagno means bath). It doesn't have much of a town but in the middle of what there is contains a large square with a big pool that isn't swimmable.
Vespers in the Abby - We spend a couple of hours driving around the scenic Tuscan countryside with Bob graciously pulling over whenever I spot something that looks like a good photo. We end up driving to San Antimo Abby (Abbazia di Sant'Antimo) whose beginnings came around the 12th century or earlier. A small contingent of monks (about 10) live in residence; they pray regularly throughout the day. We are in time for vespers and the monks' sonorous tones echo in the high ceiling of the church. It is a full, spiritual experience which we are grateful to have experienced.
Val d'Orcia - The sun is beginning to get lower and we want to head for the Palazzo before it gets pitch black. Up and down the winding golden hills we go. We pull into a rest stop and, before our eyes, heading up out of the dusky Val d'Orcia (valley), is the famous winding road with Plane trees lining it that one sees in countless photos and paintings about Tuscany. We had no idea we were in the right area but by this time, the light is bad and the photos are merely for memory and eventual wall display. It has been a long day, packed with many sights, and we are exceedingly grateful to get back to Soriano much too late at 10 p.m. Tomorrow will be a long day with our Secret Itineraries tour of the Vatican in Rome.
Sunday, June 13, 2010
Villa Lante & Cvita di Bagnoregio - Afternoon of June 13, 2010
We spent our morning on an orientation walking tour of Soriano nel Cimino with Floriana, who organizes the tours, activities, and opera night for Palazzo Catalani. After the morning tour with Floriana, we ate homemade panini in our room. Our goals for the afternoon is to visit the gardens at Villa Lante in nearby Bagnaia, and perhaps visit Rick Steve's favorite city in Italy, Cvita de Bagnoregio.
Gardens of Villa Lante - We had little trouble driving to the town but ended up parking in a street spot because we missed a parking lot entrance. And then we walked right past the ticket booth and had to be pointed back to it. Part of the park-like grounds are free admission and contain an original - and large - Pegasus fountain/pool feature original to the garden grounds. It was first commissioned in the early 1500's by Cardinal Gianfrancesco Gambara - otherwise known as Cardinal Crayfish. The crayfish appears in many mural paintings that cover two "casini" (casinos), where lots of entertaining occurred back in the old days.
The gardens themselves feature cascading waterways, fountains, and dripping grottoes. Water seems to be everywhere and flows from one vessel or pool to another. There are three levels to the garden. The first contains a perfectly square parterre, which is a formal garden pattern consisting of tightly clipped hedging in a short maze-like arrangement. There is a large water feature at the center. The top of the steps on the next level is dominated by a water feature/fountain with reclining Neptune-like statutes. The third level of the garden is ascended by more stairs with a long narrow rippling basin in the center (to keep wine cool). On top there are more incredible statuary water surprises, grottos, and an open air casini.
Shortly after we arrived, a tour bus of retired Italians unloaded and the gardens lost some of their peacefulness. We moved a little faster than we would have preferred to keep ahead of them and experience the beautiful garden quietly in our own way. Otherwise, there were very few people there. In the end, we didn't linger and savor the gardens as much as we might have liked. We were hoping to take away ideas for our own backyard landscaping but there were so many water features and big statuary that it is difficult to translate these elements to a square backyard lot surrounded by T-111 and lap-sided boxy houses. (Tivoli and Villa d'Este gardens were on our wish list to see as well, but they were a good two-hour drive away toward Rome.)
The Dying Town - It is late in the afternoon, but we decide to head for Rick Steves' favorite Italian burg known as "the dying town" - Cvita di Bagnoregio. He has, no doubt, been instrumental driving tourism there despite the claim of only 15 residents (about 100 in summer). It is only 30 miles away and we estimate it will only take us about 45 minutes to drive there. Plus, the days are long and this will be our only chance to see it, as the rest of the week's agenda is packed.
We had a heck of a time finding the parking lot at the base of the walking bridge from the mainland side of Bagnoregio to the tower of volcanic tuffa, from which the ancient Cvita rises. Looking at the Michelen map (a must to have) today, it's a wonder we even got there. The GPS was not at all helpful nor were the Italian answers I got when stopping to ask directions. The light appears to waning when we finally stumbled into the parking lot about 7 pm. No stopping now so we hot foot it up the long, wide tall paved bridge. We're a bit hungry and decide to order some infamous Cvita bruschetta and glass of wine at the first open restaurant we find - Bar Peppone. The bruschetta was unremarkable and even a bit dry, but the taste wasn't the point. We're here in Cvita noshing bread and sipping wine as we watch a work crew dismantle a stage where, apparently, there had been a concert earlier. Darn. Missed it. Their work is laborious as all the sound equipment and stage planking and steel supports must be hauled out on a dune buggy type vehicle, a few pieces at a time.
Next, we wander around the town snapping scenic pictures and trying to soak up as much atmosphere and experience as we can in an hour. Although Rick says the last living native Cvita resident no longer lives there, I swear that we come upon the old lady (Maria) walking slowly with the aid of a young woman. We hike back across the bridge in time to snap some golden light photos of Cvita. What a fun, magical place it is.
Gardens of Villa Lante - We had little trouble driving to the town but ended up parking in a street spot because we missed a parking lot entrance. And then we walked right past the ticket booth and had to be pointed back to it. Part of the park-like grounds are free admission and contain an original - and large - Pegasus fountain/pool feature original to the garden grounds. It was first commissioned in the early 1500's by Cardinal Gianfrancesco Gambara - otherwise known as Cardinal Crayfish. The crayfish appears in many mural paintings that cover two "casini" (casinos), where lots of entertaining occurred back in the old days.
The gardens themselves feature cascading waterways, fountains, and dripping grottoes. Water seems to be everywhere and flows from one vessel or pool to another. There are three levels to the garden. The first contains a perfectly square parterre, which is a formal garden pattern consisting of tightly clipped hedging in a short maze-like arrangement. There is a large water feature at the center. The top of the steps on the next level is dominated by a water feature/fountain with reclining Neptune-like statutes. The third level of the garden is ascended by more stairs with a long narrow rippling basin in the center (to keep wine cool). On top there are more incredible statuary water surprises, grottos, and an open air casini.
Shortly after we arrived, a tour bus of retired Italians unloaded and the gardens lost some of their peacefulness. We moved a little faster than we would have preferred to keep ahead of them and experience the beautiful garden quietly in our own way. Otherwise, there were very few people there. In the end, we didn't linger and savor the gardens as much as we might have liked. We were hoping to take away ideas for our own backyard landscaping but there were so many water features and big statuary that it is difficult to translate these elements to a square backyard lot surrounded by T-111 and lap-sided boxy houses. (Tivoli and Villa d'Este gardens were on our wish list to see as well, but they were a good two-hour drive away toward Rome.)
The Dying Town - It is late in the afternoon, but we decide to head for Rick Steves' favorite Italian burg known as "the dying town" - Cvita di Bagnoregio. He has, no doubt, been instrumental driving tourism there despite the claim of only 15 residents (about 100 in summer). It is only 30 miles away and we estimate it will only take us about 45 minutes to drive there. Plus, the days are long and this will be our only chance to see it, as the rest of the week's agenda is packed.
We had a heck of a time finding the parking lot at the base of the walking bridge from the mainland side of Bagnoregio to the tower of volcanic tuffa, from which the ancient Cvita rises. Looking at the Michelen map (a must to have) today, it's a wonder we even got there. The GPS was not at all helpful nor were the Italian answers I got when stopping to ask directions. The light appears to waning when we finally stumbled into the parking lot about 7 pm. No stopping now so we hot foot it up the long, wide tall paved bridge. We're a bit hungry and decide to order some infamous Cvita bruschetta and glass of wine at the first open restaurant we find - Bar Peppone. The bruschetta was unremarkable and even a bit dry, but the taste wasn't the point. We're here in Cvita noshing bread and sipping wine as we watch a work crew dismantle a stage where, apparently, there had been a concert earlier. Darn. Missed it. Their work is laborious as all the sound equipment and stage planking and steel supports must be hauled out on a dune buggy type vehicle, a few pieces at a time.
Next, we wander around the town snapping scenic pictures and trying to soak up as much atmosphere and experience as we can in an hour. Although Rick says the last living native Cvita resident no longer lives there, I swear that we come upon the old lady (Maria) walking slowly with the aid of a young woman. We hike back across the bridge in time to snap some golden light photos of Cvita. What a fun, magical place it is.
Tour of Soriano with Floriana - Morning of June 13, 2010
Floriana's Soriano - This morning we meet in the living room of the Palazzo to prepare for a tour with resident expert, Floriana, who grew up here. She has charming snippets to tell us, not the least of which is the town siren which we have definitely noticed and wondered about. It brings Kay many memories of the air raid sirens that were tested with regularity (every Tuesday?) about 10 a.m. all through grade school years growing up in Olympia,WA. Floriana says that the siren goes off at 8 a.m., noon, and 5 p.m. However, whether it goes off at all depends as to which political party is in power. The left party runs the siren three and sometimes four times a day. Back in the old days, farmers managed their day by the siren. If the right is elected, the siren is typically stopped, although there will often be many complaints by those whose schedule depends on it.
Another snippet is about all the men who stand around in the square. More than one person has noted this in the past, which is why Floriana addresses it. Most of them are retired, of course, and have little else to do. They come down in the morning for coffee with their cronies. Home for lunch with the wife. Back downtown in the evening before dinner (about 8 pm) and sometimes even go back down after dinner for passeggiata (social strolling). They just seem to hang around in groups, yakking away, and many of them wear travel vests - the khaki-colored kind with multiple pockets. They are so many of them that it is quite noticeable. Apparently, the women are typically home - working, of course.
Walkabout the Town - We leave the Palazzo at 11 a.m. and visit the local Catholic church. It is not nearly as glorious as many we have seen, although the dominant color scheme is a lovely blue. It has enough gilt to classify it as Catholic. The next stop is the city hall courtyard, which used to be a monastery. We follow Floriana through town as she gives us tidbits of information. Shops open from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m. and close from 1 to 5 p.m. for lunch and siesta. Shops open again from 5 to 8 p.m. Restaurants and/or bars (which more likely serve coffee but will also serve wine and sandwiches close at 3 p.m. (definitely problem for us as we tend to eat a late lunch). Restaurants often reopen at 7 p.m. but more likely 8 p.m. No one has a dryer as there is a 100 percent tax on electricity; that's why there are so many clothes hung outside to dry. The buildings are often so old and the walls so thick that electric wires and pipes cannot be run through the walls. The only place to run them is on the exterior of buildings.
Castle Orsini - We wind our way up the crooked, narrow cobblestoned streets for a tour of the Orsini Castle. Frankly, I don't remember what the history of the castle was other than pope Nicolò Orsini the third built it - not the same Orsini who made the Monster Park a couple of centuries later. What was more interesting was the walk up the street and learning that pigeons are a terrible problem and that plastic bottles filled with water seem to deter them from landing or pooping on your doorstep. The castle could use a good renovation although it is used for retreats and small events. The views are fantastic and we get some good ones of the Palazzo. The castle is lighted at night and is quite a spectacle to view from the Palazzo. In fact, on the first night when we were tired and trying to find our way to Soriano in the dark, the lighted castle became our beacon in the night to drive toward.
Another snippet is about all the men who stand around in the square. More than one person has noted this in the past, which is why Floriana addresses it. Most of them are retired, of course, and have little else to do. They come down in the morning for coffee with their cronies. Home for lunch with the wife. Back downtown in the evening before dinner (about 8 pm) and sometimes even go back down after dinner for passeggiata (social strolling). They just seem to hang around in groups, yakking away, and many of them wear travel vests - the khaki-colored kind with multiple pockets. They are so many of them that it is quite noticeable. Apparently, the women are typically home - working, of course.
Walkabout the Town - We leave the Palazzo at 11 a.m. and visit the local Catholic church. It is not nearly as glorious as many we have seen, although the dominant color scheme is a lovely blue. It has enough gilt to classify it as Catholic. The next stop is the city hall courtyard, which used to be a monastery. We follow Floriana through town as she gives us tidbits of information. Shops open from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m. and close from 1 to 5 p.m. for lunch and siesta. Shops open again from 5 to 8 p.m. Restaurants and/or bars (which more likely serve coffee but will also serve wine and sandwiches close at 3 p.m. (definitely problem for us as we tend to eat a late lunch). Restaurants often reopen at 7 p.m. but more likely 8 p.m. No one has a dryer as there is a 100 percent tax on electricity; that's why there are so many clothes hung outside to dry. The buildings are often so old and the walls so thick that electric wires and pipes cannot be run through the walls. The only place to run them is on the exterior of buildings.
Castle Orsini - We wind our way up the crooked, narrow cobblestoned streets for a tour of the Orsini Castle. Frankly, I don't remember what the history of the castle was other than pope Nicolò Orsini the third built it - not the same Orsini who made the Monster Park a couple of centuries later. What was more interesting was the walk up the street and learning that pigeons are a terrible problem and that plastic bottles filled with water seem to deter them from landing or pooping on your doorstep. The castle could use a good renovation although it is used for retreats and small events. The views are fantastic and we get some good ones of the Palazzo. The castle is lighted at night and is quite a spectacle to view from the Palazzo. In fact, on the first night when we were tired and trying to find our way to Soriano in the dark, the lighted castle became our beacon in the night to drive toward.
Saturday, June 12, 2010
Orvieto - June 12, 2010
Claim to Fame - Today we are going to the Umbrian town of Orvieto, about 45 minutes north up the A1 from Soriano. Like many villages, the "old town" sits 1,000 feet above the valley floor on a huge chunk of tufa rock. Orvieto has three popular claims to fame: cathedral, Classico wine, and ceramics. Once again, heeding Rick Steves' advice, we park down below in a lot and buy an $18E Carte Unica combo ticket that allows us five hours of parking, a ride up the short funicular up to the top, transportation around town, and entrance to the top sites, including the Underground Orvieto Tour. After the funiucular, we hop a mini shuttle bus that drops us off near the Piazza del Duomo and beginning of the tourist center with lots of gorgeous pottery and ceramic shops. But there is no time to stop and shop as the next Underground Tour in English is about to begin.
Duomo Distractions -While waiting for the tour to begin, things are happening at the spectacular gothic Duomo. It seems that a wedding has just occurred. There is the lovely bride, Eleanora, in her white dress with the handsome groom, Emanuele and all their family. Professional photos are being captured as well as many by gawking tourists - including me. I wander back to join Bob and the waiting tour group when all of a sudden a group of adorable children in white outfits file out of the Duomo. They gather with the priest on the steps for countless photo opps by adoring parents to celebrate what is likely their first communion. At the risk of getting separated from the tour, I dash once more to take photos of this charm and then run to catch up with the tour group.
Underground Tour -Speaking British-accented English, our tour guide takes us down a wide gravel path descending to a lower level. Although the light is bad, the scenes of a picturesque castle in the valley are too good to ignore for the lens. Eventually, we tuck underground into a series of caves and tunnels as the guide weaves an hour-long archeological history tour of medieval and Etruscan life. There's an ancient olive press and an impressive 130 foot well shaft, as well as small squares carved into the walls for pigeon roosts - which provided meat and eggs for the villagers.
Trattorio del'Moro Arrone - A family-run bistro recommended by Steves, we try the recommended "nidi," folds of fresh pasta enveloping gooey, warm Pecorino cheese sweetened with honey. They had me at "folds" and it lives up to the promise. Bob orders tortellini with Pecorino and arugula and I go for chewy thick spaghetti-like noodles called pici tossed with porcini mushrooms and grated truffle. To die for - both of them. We down it all with a half carafe of white Orvieto Classico Biggi wine and top it off with a white chocolate mousse and fresh berries. Wow!
Calorie Burner - Obviously, we have to keep moving in order to utilize those calories we packed away so we head back up to see the famed Duomo - which, of course - is stunning. The exterior is a bit unusual in that it is a checkerboard of black and white stone. The nave is less spacious and cluttered with Baroque décor, elaborate tombs, and the art than many Italian churches but it is nonetheless spectacular. Like all churches, it is free to enter although the side chapels will often charge a fee to enter. We are so overwhelmed with churchly beauty that we never pay extra to see more. We do, however, pay money to burn candles and put contributions in the offering boxes.
Ceramics Alley - With a love for painted pottery, we wander in and out of the many shops. The colors and designs are such a treat for the eye. It isn't cheap although that doesn't stop us looking for bargains. I wanted to bring home all sorts of beautiful souvenirs. Often I see things I'd love to have but they become a want and not a need. Plus, I wonder if perhaps I'll find similar items at a less expensive cost - perhaps in Deruta, that is reported to be the source of much beautiful pottery - and a planned day trip. Rather than make the reader wait to know whether I ever found any good bargains, I tell you this: there are no bargains in painted pottery or ceramics to be had. And, Italy isn't like the U.S. where you might find the same item for a cheaper price. No, indeed. If you find something you like in Italy, you'd better buy it because it is likely not mass produced and you won't find any similar items anywhere else.
Which is why we left Italy without the darling water and wine pitchers we passed up in Spello that were truly a bargain. Live and learn. We pick up some salt/pepper shakers, an olio bottle, and a spoon holder. They are all beautiful and easy to pack - and left me hungering for more.
Hiking the Ramparts - To work off lunch and some of those "folds," we decide to take a hike around the city on the "Rupe" which is touted as a peaceful paved path that completely circles the town at the base of the sheer golden-colored tuscia cliff on which it sits - per Rick Steves. We find our way down on one of the access points and find that it is, truly, peaceful and fairly level. There's no one but us down there. The path is supposed to last about three miles but we swear we've gone barely a mile when we come to a fork. We take one and it comes to a dead end. The other choice seemed to head downhill and likely not in the direction we want. So we retrace our steps back up to town where we end up on some ramparts that impart lovely views of Umbria countryside.
After wandering around a bit more in Orvieto, we head back for Soriano and a salad and pizza - dinner on the cheap in the garden with wine.
Duomo Distractions -While waiting for the tour to begin, things are happening at the spectacular gothic Duomo. It seems that a wedding has just occurred. There is the lovely bride, Eleanora, in her white dress with the handsome groom, Emanuele and all their family. Professional photos are being captured as well as many by gawking tourists - including me. I wander back to join Bob and the waiting tour group when all of a sudden a group of adorable children in white outfits file out of the Duomo. They gather with the priest on the steps for countless photo opps by adoring parents to celebrate what is likely their first communion. At the risk of getting separated from the tour, I dash once more to take photos of this charm and then run to catch up with the tour group.
Underground Tour -Speaking British-accented English, our tour guide takes us down a wide gravel path descending to a lower level. Although the light is bad, the scenes of a picturesque castle in the valley are too good to ignore for the lens. Eventually, we tuck underground into a series of caves and tunnels as the guide weaves an hour-long archeological history tour of medieval and Etruscan life. There's an ancient olive press and an impressive 130 foot well shaft, as well as small squares carved into the walls for pigeon roosts - which provided meat and eggs for the villagers.
Trattorio del'Moro Arrone - A family-run bistro recommended by Steves, we try the recommended "nidi," folds of fresh pasta enveloping gooey, warm Pecorino cheese sweetened with honey. They had me at "folds" and it lives up to the promise. Bob orders tortellini with Pecorino and arugula and I go for chewy thick spaghetti-like noodles called pici tossed with porcini mushrooms and grated truffle. To die for - both of them. We down it all with a half carafe of white Orvieto Classico Biggi wine and top it off with a white chocolate mousse and fresh berries. Wow!
Calorie Burner - Obviously, we have to keep moving in order to utilize those calories we packed away so we head back up to see the famed Duomo - which, of course - is stunning. The exterior is a bit unusual in that it is a checkerboard of black and white stone. The nave is less spacious and cluttered with Baroque décor, elaborate tombs, and the art than many Italian churches but it is nonetheless spectacular. Like all churches, it is free to enter although the side chapels will often charge a fee to enter. We are so overwhelmed with churchly beauty that we never pay extra to see more. We do, however, pay money to burn candles and put contributions in the offering boxes.
Ceramics Alley - With a love for painted pottery, we wander in and out of the many shops. The colors and designs are such a treat for the eye. It isn't cheap although that doesn't stop us looking for bargains. I wanted to bring home all sorts of beautiful souvenirs. Often I see things I'd love to have but they become a want and not a need. Plus, I wonder if perhaps I'll find similar items at a less expensive cost - perhaps in Deruta, that is reported to be the source of much beautiful pottery - and a planned day trip. Rather than make the reader wait to know whether I ever found any good bargains, I tell you this: there are no bargains in painted pottery or ceramics to be had. And, Italy isn't like the U.S. where you might find the same item for a cheaper price. No, indeed. If you find something you like in Italy, you'd better buy it because it is likely not mass produced and you won't find any similar items anywhere else.
Which is why we left Italy without the darling water and wine pitchers we passed up in Spello that were truly a bargain. Live and learn. We pick up some salt/pepper shakers, an olio bottle, and a spoon holder. They are all beautiful and easy to pack - and left me hungering for more.
Hiking the Ramparts - To work off lunch and some of those "folds," we decide to take a hike around the city on the "Rupe" which is touted as a peaceful paved path that completely circles the town at the base of the sheer golden-colored tuscia cliff on which it sits - per Rick Steves. We find our way down on one of the access points and find that it is, truly, peaceful and fairly level. There's no one but us down there. The path is supposed to last about three miles but we swear we've gone barely a mile when we come to a fork. We take one and it comes to a dead end. The other choice seemed to head downhill and likely not in the direction we want. So we retrace our steps back up to town where we end up on some ramparts that impart lovely views of Umbria countryside.
After wandering around a bit more in Orvieto, we head back for Soriano and a salad and pizza - dinner on the cheap in the garden with wine.
Friday, June 11, 2010
Saturnia Hot Springs & Village of Pitigliano with Via de Cava Guiseppe - Afternoon of June 11, 2010
Day trip after Morning Market - Following our adventures on market day in Soriano, we head out for an afternoon day trip to Saturnia Hotsprings and Pitigliano.
Saturnia Hotsprings - There are a lot of hotsprings throughout Italy and I have seen photos of some free ones that appear to be tucked up a road. They look stunning. Off we head on a country drive through the region of Maremma to find this place. Naturally, the roads aren't well marked. I've got some directions and some landmarks and we eventually find it. There's a big dirt parking lot and we wander down a road - on which others are wandering - and come onto the most beautiful vista of shallow tiered hotsprings pools with aqua blue water. Plenty of people know about this place and they are lounging around and draped over the edges enjoying these natural hot tubs.
Village of Pitigliano & Via de Cava Guiseppe - There are supposed to be some Etruscan caves or tunnels somewhere around the base of the tiny town of Pitigliano (pronounced Peeteeliano). After more winding roads, Pitigliano comes into view. Constructed on a spur of tufa below the imposing Orisini castle, Pitigliano appears to the visitor like a scene from a fable, rising on a rocky cliff of savage beauty surrounded by deep valleys. The houses are constructed at the top of sheer tufa cliffs that make the construction of defensive walls superfluous. There are characteristic grottos and Etruscan tombs excavated from the high tufa walls, some of which are used today as cellars for the preservation of wine. Indeed, we see many of these doors.
By following some driving instructions found on the internet, we find where the Via de Cava Guiseppe is located. There appears to be a path adjacent to a river. We meet a fisherman coming out and he eyes us with much suspicion. We're a little nervous that we might be trespassing but signs point the way. When we get to where the Etruscan Cava is there is a sign that seems to indicate "don't enter." There is so much written in Italian we can't understand any of it. Right or wrong, we decide to ignore the sign and go forward. We're respectful tourists and it is exciting to be wandering in this area all alone, knowing that we are walking where the ancient Etruscans once lived and thrived. It feels like an honor to be here in what feels like a sacred place with no one else around. It is a little dark and photographs don't do it justice. Really, there's not much to photograph except mounds of rocks.
Afterwards, we drive up into Pitigliano. It's about 6 p.m. and not much is open. There are a few little shops that are trying to serve tourists with wine, olives, and postcards. Unfortunately, nothing we are interested in. We're worried that we parked in a bad spot so we don't linger long.
Dinner at Palazzo - We're more than ready to head back to Soriano. We wind our way back into town past fields with round bales of hay, up into the square, squeezing up the road in town, and making the sharp right to head down into the parking lot. It's a quick - a familiar - walk to our room at the Palazzo. I tackle the salad and Bob heads off to buy some takeout at Bar Pizzeria Siria.
Down to the Palazzo's lovely garden we go to tuck into bowls of lovely fresh salad tossed with olive oil and balsamic, delicious zucchini and porcini mushroom pizza, and the bottle of Brunello wine. The evening continues with the opening World Cup match between England and the U.S.
Saturnia Hotsprings - There are a lot of hotsprings throughout Italy and I have seen photos of some free ones that appear to be tucked up a road. They look stunning. Off we head on a country drive through the region of Maremma to find this place. Naturally, the roads aren't well marked. I've got some directions and some landmarks and we eventually find it. There's a big dirt parking lot and we wander down a road - on which others are wandering - and come onto the most beautiful vista of shallow tiered hotsprings pools with aqua blue water. Plenty of people know about this place and they are lounging around and draped over the edges enjoying these natural hot tubs.
Village of Pitigliano & Via de Cava Guiseppe - There are supposed to be some Etruscan caves or tunnels somewhere around the base of the tiny town of Pitigliano (pronounced Peeteeliano). After more winding roads, Pitigliano comes into view. Constructed on a spur of tufa below the imposing Orisini castle, Pitigliano appears to the visitor like a scene from a fable, rising on a rocky cliff of savage beauty surrounded by deep valleys. The houses are constructed at the top of sheer tufa cliffs that make the construction of defensive walls superfluous. There are characteristic grottos and Etruscan tombs excavated from the high tufa walls, some of which are used today as cellars for the preservation of wine. Indeed, we see many of these doors.
By following some driving instructions found on the internet, we find where the Via de Cava Guiseppe is located. There appears to be a path adjacent to a river. We meet a fisherman coming out and he eyes us with much suspicion. We're a little nervous that we might be trespassing but signs point the way. When we get to where the Etruscan Cava is there is a sign that seems to indicate "don't enter." There is so much written in Italian we can't understand any of it. Right or wrong, we decide to ignore the sign and go forward. We're respectful tourists and it is exciting to be wandering in this area all alone, knowing that we are walking where the ancient Etruscans once lived and thrived. It feels like an honor to be here in what feels like a sacred place with no one else around. It is a little dark and photographs don't do it justice. Really, there's not much to photograph except mounds of rocks.
Afterwards, we drive up into Pitigliano. It's about 6 p.m. and not much is open. There are a few little shops that are trying to serve tourists with wine, olives, and postcards. Unfortunately, nothing we are interested in. We're worried that we parked in a bad spot so we don't linger long.
Dinner at Palazzo - We're more than ready to head back to Soriano. We wind our way back into town past fields with round bales of hay, up into the square, squeezing up the road in town, and making the sharp right to head down into the parking lot. It's a quick - a familiar - walk to our room at the Palazzo. I tackle the salad and Bob heads off to buy some takeout at Bar Pizzeria Siria.
Down to the Palazzo's lovely garden we go to tuck into bowls of lovely fresh salad tossed with olive oil and balsamic, delicious zucchini and porcini mushroom pizza, and the bottle of Brunello wine. The evening continues with the opening World Cup match between England and the U.S.
Shopping & Soccer in Soriano - Morning & Evening of June 11, 2010
Down Day - After three long days in Rome, we're ready for a quiet day and sleep in a bit. It's time to stock up on a few grocery supplies so we check in at the reception with some questions and learn that it is market day in town.
Market Day in Soriano nel Cimino - With visions in our heads of typical U.S. farmer's markets filled with lovely produce, baked goods, and crafts in awning-covered stalls, we are eager to go. Kay is armed with the camera and Bob has our shopping bags tucked under his arm. As we head down the hill toward the square, what we see that the entire square is packed with big van style trucks. They have awnings cranked out over the displays which disappointingly consist of shoes, clothes, household goods, plastic ware, etc. Nevertheless, there are pictures to be made, ambiance to absorb, and people to watch. Everyone has come to town and there is much baby admiring, dog petting, and socializing going on. Although not a single produce display is to be found, the whole scene is still a feast for the eye.
Situation Produce - We decide that we might as well buy some salad supplies and fresh fruit. Since there are several produce shops (they are teensy, one-room affairs, about as big as a one-car garage) and we decide to buy at a different one than before. As we part the hanging strands of the doorway curtain (they keep out the bugs - which are no more than in the Pacific Northwest) and step in, we assess that we picked the most popular one with all the town ladies. There's really no room for both of us and Bob quickly exits stage right.
I (aka Kay) pick up a basket, load it with fresh lettuce and fruit items, and step toward the two women who are weighing everything and taking the money. But there is no line system here that I can discern and I can't figure out what to do. After all, I want to be a polite - not an ugly - American. I feel like a martian and all around me there are mutterings of "senora" this and "senora" that. I'm sure they're talking about me and I want desperately to exit, stage left. Finally I am nudged close enough to a counter and the cashier reaches out, takes my basket, and starts weighing everything (a few more senoras about that, too). She writes the price on a slip of paper, I hand over the money, and squeeze my way out of there. Bob wondered if he would ever see me again. After that experience, we head for the small COOP supermarket (where where is a system) and load up on yogurt, cheese, meat, bread, and a bottle of Brunello wine produced in Montepulciano.
Saturnia Hot Springs & Village of Pitigliano with Via de Cava Guiseppe - For the afternoon, we are going to drive around the Maremma region - about 45 minutes from Soriano - to look for Saturnia Hot Springs. We also plan to try and find some Etruscan cave-like walkways at the base of the village of Pitigliano. We head off to the car park area, stopping to give some cat treats and attention to the friendly kitty that hangs around there. The rest of the details deserve their own entry.
World Cup Soccer - It is the opening day for the World Cup in South Africa. First up: England vs. U.S.! In a couple of places in Soriano we have noticed areas set up with large flat screen televisions and seating. After our homemade dinner we head down to the main square and grab a table at the Café Centrale "bar" where we can see the TV. We're trying to be low key and blend in as much as possible. We order glasses of wine and complimentary snacks are also served (like mini baked cheese buns, crackers, etc.). There are a couple of guys at a table next to the TV. Apparently, they know a lot of people in town as there is a steady stream of folks stopping by. Unfortunately, they often stand in front of the screen. Bob isn't shy about voicing his complaint - "hey, hey!" The guy at the table finally gets the message as Bob makes his wishes known by tipping from side to side as if trying to see. After that, the guy makes a point of making his friends move and points toward Bob as if to say: "That American dude is trying to watch the game, bonehead, and you're blocking the screen."
Simon Says - A gregarious Italian boy about age 13 picks up on the fact that we're American and loudly bellows: "U-S-A, U-S-A!" accompanied by arm pumping. So much for trying to be discreet! The kid pulls up a chair, repeats the cheer, and proceeds to practice his English on us. "I speak English! My name is Simon. Who are you?" We tell him our names and answer some of his broken-English questions while another kid turns around and stares at Simon with an expression that hovers between amazement and disgust. A geek is a geek no matter what country you're in. You can just tell. But we're polite and laugh along with Simon. When he has had enough, he gets up to go, waves, and says, "hi!" We wave and say, "BYE!" We have a few minutes of watching the game in peace and Simon shows up again with a repeat arm-pumping performance. This time he brings a group of his buddies so he can show off. He's still a geeky kid but I give him credit for being personable and trying out his English. When he leaves this time, he grins and correctly says a cheeky, "bye!"
Fashion Show Fundraiser - It's a beautiful, warm, star-filled night. It feels like the entire town has turned out to hang around the square. Once in a while a car sneaks through but the main traffic is on two or four legs, or in strollers. In fact, next to our group of white plastic chairs and tables at Café Centrale, a stage is being set up along with a large sound system. Lots of little girls merrily dash across the stage turning cartwheels or chasing each other. What is going to happen here, we wonder? A dance? A concert? About 9 p.m., the crowd is thick- lots of families and kids. The rock music starts and kids of varying ages and abilities show up for a gymnastic/dance routine, some of them twirling ribbons. Lots of mistakes and strictly amateur - probably kids from the local gymnastics center.
After about 15 minutes, sexy rock music starts and out strut four teenage girls striking modeling poses, turning this way and that. This group is followed by several more groups all doing the same thing. These aren't professional models by any means but mere local model wannabes. There's even a gal in her 40s. They all start out in swimwear (yikes) and progress through many clothing changes. They always appear in the same group pacing up, then back, from side to side, spin, turn, cross over, very serious (models don't smile) and back up the stage and out - likely for another clothing change. The clothes aren't exactly runway fashion and I would guess they are their own.
The soccer game ends in a tie; the models come out for a final bow. Photos would be inappropriate and attention gathering so our memories will have to serve for as long as it can of this precious slice of beautiful life in the middle of the town square on a lively family-filled night in Soriano nel Cimino.
Market Day in Soriano nel Cimino - With visions in our heads of typical U.S. farmer's markets filled with lovely produce, baked goods, and crafts in awning-covered stalls, we are eager to go. Kay is armed with the camera and Bob has our shopping bags tucked under his arm. As we head down the hill toward the square, what we see that the entire square is packed with big van style trucks. They have awnings cranked out over the displays which disappointingly consist of shoes, clothes, household goods, plastic ware, etc. Nevertheless, there are pictures to be made, ambiance to absorb, and people to watch. Everyone has come to town and there is much baby admiring, dog petting, and socializing going on. Although not a single produce display is to be found, the whole scene is still a feast for the eye.
Situation Produce - We decide that we might as well buy some salad supplies and fresh fruit. Since there are several produce shops (they are teensy, one-room affairs, about as big as a one-car garage) and we decide to buy at a different one than before. As we part the hanging strands of the doorway curtain (they keep out the bugs - which are no more than in the Pacific Northwest) and step in, we assess that we picked the most popular one with all the town ladies. There's really no room for both of us and Bob quickly exits stage right.
I (aka Kay) pick up a basket, load it with fresh lettuce and fruit items, and step toward the two women who are weighing everything and taking the money. But there is no line system here that I can discern and I can't figure out what to do. After all, I want to be a polite - not an ugly - American. I feel like a martian and all around me there are mutterings of "senora" this and "senora" that. I'm sure they're talking about me and I want desperately to exit, stage left. Finally I am nudged close enough to a counter and the cashier reaches out, takes my basket, and starts weighing everything (a few more senoras about that, too). She writes the price on a slip of paper, I hand over the money, and squeeze my way out of there. Bob wondered if he would ever see me again. After that experience, we head for the small COOP supermarket (where where is a system) and load up on yogurt, cheese, meat, bread, and a bottle of Brunello wine produced in Montepulciano.
Saturnia Hot Springs & Village of Pitigliano with Via de Cava Guiseppe - For the afternoon, we are going to drive around the Maremma region - about 45 minutes from Soriano - to look for Saturnia Hot Springs. We also plan to try and find some Etruscan cave-like walkways at the base of the village of Pitigliano. We head off to the car park area, stopping to give some cat treats and attention to the friendly kitty that hangs around there. The rest of the details deserve their own entry.
World Cup Soccer - It is the opening day for the World Cup in South Africa. First up: England vs. U.S.! In a couple of places in Soriano we have noticed areas set up with large flat screen televisions and seating. After our homemade dinner we head down to the main square and grab a table at the Café Centrale "bar" where we can see the TV. We're trying to be low key and blend in as much as possible. We order glasses of wine and complimentary snacks are also served (like mini baked cheese buns, crackers, etc.). There are a couple of guys at a table next to the TV. Apparently, they know a lot of people in town as there is a steady stream of folks stopping by. Unfortunately, they often stand in front of the screen. Bob isn't shy about voicing his complaint - "hey, hey!" The guy at the table finally gets the message as Bob makes his wishes known by tipping from side to side as if trying to see. After that, the guy makes a point of making his friends move and points toward Bob as if to say: "That American dude is trying to watch the game, bonehead, and you're blocking the screen."
Simon Says - A gregarious Italian boy about age 13 picks up on the fact that we're American and loudly bellows: "U-S-A, U-S-A!" accompanied by arm pumping. So much for trying to be discreet! The kid pulls up a chair, repeats the cheer, and proceeds to practice his English on us. "I speak English! My name is Simon. Who are you?" We tell him our names and answer some of his broken-English questions while another kid turns around and stares at Simon with an expression that hovers between amazement and disgust. A geek is a geek no matter what country you're in. You can just tell. But we're polite and laugh along with Simon. When he has had enough, he gets up to go, waves, and says, "hi!" We wave and say, "BYE!" We have a few minutes of watching the game in peace and Simon shows up again with a repeat arm-pumping performance. This time he brings a group of his buddies so he can show off. He's still a geeky kid but I give him credit for being personable and trying out his English. When he leaves this time, he grins and correctly says a cheeky, "bye!"
Fashion Show Fundraiser - It's a beautiful, warm, star-filled night. It feels like the entire town has turned out to hang around the square. Once in a while a car sneaks through but the main traffic is on two or four legs, or in strollers. In fact, next to our group of white plastic chairs and tables at Café Centrale, a stage is being set up along with a large sound system. Lots of little girls merrily dash across the stage turning cartwheels or chasing each other. What is going to happen here, we wonder? A dance? A concert? About 9 p.m., the crowd is thick- lots of families and kids. The rock music starts and kids of varying ages and abilities show up for a gymnastic/dance routine, some of them twirling ribbons. Lots of mistakes and strictly amateur - probably kids from the local gymnastics center.
After about 15 minutes, sexy rock music starts and out strut four teenage girls striking modeling poses, turning this way and that. This group is followed by several more groups all doing the same thing. These aren't professional models by any means but mere local model wannabes. There's even a gal in her 40s. They all start out in swimwear (yikes) and progress through many clothing changes. They always appear in the same group pacing up, then back, from side to side, spin, turn, cross over, very serious (models don't smile) and back up the stage and out - likely for another clothing change. The clothes aren't exactly runway fashion and I would guess they are their own.
The soccer game ends in a tie; the models come out for a final bow. Photos would be inappropriate and attention gathering so our memories will have to serve for as long as it can of this precious slice of beautiful life in the middle of the town square on a lively family-filled night in Soriano nel Cimino.
Thursday, June 10, 2010
Rome - Day 3 - June 10, 2010
Train Travel - We're practically natives now that we drive, park, and travel with ease on the train to Rome Termini. We make sure to take our morning pit stop at the Orte clean train station facilities. The train bathrooms can be nasty and I don't even want my shoes stepping in there.
Scala Sancta - The Sacred Steps are 28 wood-encased marble steps rumored to have been brought from Jerusalem on which Jesus was questioned by Pontius Pilate and walked down to his torture. They are sacred to Catholics and can only be ascended on the knees. Many popes, hundreds of priests and nuns, countless faithful, and just plain tourists have made the pilgrimage to the holy stairs and knee'd their way up. The atmosphere is hushed as everyone respects the religious significance of them, the accompanying relics, and adjacent place of worship. We choose to go up one of the side staircases on our feet to make a quick visit to the church so that we can be off catch the next bus to the catacombs.
Catacombs of San Callisto - Justin likes these catacombs the best, but they close at noon. We get there just in time for an 11:30 tour in English. The Brother leading the tour has a heavy Philippino accent and is difficult to understand, but we get the jist. Early Christians weren't allowed to bury their dead within the city walls of Rome, so they dug down several levels into the porous tuscia rock. There are four floors of catacombs at San Callisto with 500,000 buried there. There are 60 catacomb locations similar to these in the Rome area holding similar numbers of dead. Started around 150 A.D., San Callisto catacombs were discovered in modern times around 1850 but have been plundered throughout the centuries. We follow our guide down dimly lighted steps and narrow corridors while peering into family tomb areas and alcoves. There are no bones or skeletons to view and it's a good thing we're not prone to claustrophobia. During WWII, people hid down here, but the air can be toxic and it is not advisable to spend long periods down there. After the interesting 40-minute tour, we're off to catch the bus back into town.
San Giovanni in Laterano (Basilica of St. John Lateran) - This is the cathedral of the Church of Rome, Italy, and the official ecclesiastical seat of the Bishop of Rome, who is the Pope. It is the oldest cathedral and ranks first among the four Papal Basilicas. It claims the title of ecumenical mother church of the whole inhabited world among Roman Catholics. As usual, no expense has been spared to create an ostentatious testimony to Catholicism. It is filled top to bottom with gold, murals, statuary, relics, monstrous tombs filled with wealthy patrons, saints, and priests, and lots of beautiful fresh flowers. Something special occurred here earlier and find out that 3,500 priests had gathered for a morning meditation and celebration of "the year of the priest." Apparently, we are in Rome when priests, brothers, sisters, nuns, and other religious officials have come to town from around the world. There are groups of them everywhere.
Pantheon - The Pantheon is another incredible ancient site and has no entrance fee. This area is the heart of Rome and is very busy with mostly walking streets. The Pantheon has been upgraded over the years (since about 1 A.D.) by various emperors and religious dignitaries. Because of its religious significance, it was left alone by barbarians. It is filled with some red granite from the Middle East that no longer exists and is quite valuable. Naturally, the interior is stunning and the construction of the dome is incredible and has been much admired throughout the centuries. Outside in the Piazza Rotunda, a large pep rally of communists have gathered complete with banners and rock band. Justin doesn't have a high opinion of them.
Pommerola Drink - Time for lunch and we head to another of Justin's favorite restaurants, Pommerola Drink, near the Pantheon. There's no A/C indoors so we sit al fresco under a vine covered trellis. The waiters all know Justin. First, we are served a bubbly glass of spumanti. Then come the thin and chewy foccacia bread drizzled with olive oil and herbs, along with our acqua frizzante. I have a spiral twisted pasta with porcini mushrooms and sausage. The mushrooms melt like chunks of butter with each bite. Bob has a clam pasta dish and contorno of grilled red peppers, spinach and mushrooms that are great. Heavenly! Afterwards, we are served a thimbleful of limoncello. Justin warns us that it can pack quite a hit. On a thimbleful? Yes, indeed! But it doesn't do us in. Oh, but it is so good! I'm hooked.
3 Churches and Michael Jackson - We've requested additional three churches to see and Justin hustles us off, determined to grant our wishes. We are not Catholic but it seems as if their churches are always the grandest, most elaborate, and provide an amazing visual sensory overload. (What does God and Jesus really think of all this capitalistic glamour? I'm sure they forgive.) We pop in and out of Santa Maria sopra Minerva, an important church in the Dominican Catholic Order. It has with a little-known Michelangelo statue, Christ Bearing the Cross and a blue painted ceiling with pointed Gothic arches that sparkles with gold stars.
Several blocks away is the Church of San Ignazio with a riot of Baroque illusions with a false dome along with the usual glitter and glimmer. While I don't write many details about San Ignazio, it is stunning edifice and I'm glad I don't have to vote for the most glamorous and ornate church in Rome. It would nearly be a draw.
At the last, we zip into the Gesu Church. Naturally, it is out of this world resplendent with gold, marble, granite, statuary, murals and so on. There is a larger group (200?) of Jesuits: Gesu Church is their mother church. They are all looking straight into a chapel area so we go to check it out. The chapel is lined with columns of lapis lazuli and there is so much gold and silver it is blinding. In the center of it all is an incredible statute covered in gold, silver and lapis.
Justin declares it to be the "Michael Jackson of the Catholic Saints." Later, we discover it to be St. Ignatius, founder of the Jesuits. James and Bob head back toward the main entrance while I wander around taking pictures of St. Iggy. All of a sudden, right in front of my eyes, a painting slowly rolls up to cover the saint. Am I witnessing a secret revelation seldom seen by others? A mystery worthy of angels and demons? I hurry back to the guys and tell them that the statute has been covered. They rush to check it out and are astounded. Later, when reading about the Gesu Church, I discover that every day, at 5:30 p.m., the painting descends down through the floor with loud religious music and spotlights on St. Iggy. What timing it was to see this.
Goodbye Gelato - We've spent three wonderful days with Justin and have come to know him well. We have thoroughly enjoyed our time together and will recommend his guide services to everyone we possibly can. At Old Bridge Gelato I get a cup of cassata, bacio, and inglese while Bob selects walnut, bacio, and pistachio. On our way to the metro, we squirt ourselves with free fragrance samples in a display on the street outside the store. We say our goodbyes at Rome Termini and head home to Soriano.
Scala Sancta - The Sacred Steps are 28 wood-encased marble steps rumored to have been brought from Jerusalem on which Jesus was questioned by Pontius Pilate and walked down to his torture. They are sacred to Catholics and can only be ascended on the knees. Many popes, hundreds of priests and nuns, countless faithful, and just plain tourists have made the pilgrimage to the holy stairs and knee'd their way up. The atmosphere is hushed as everyone respects the religious significance of them, the accompanying relics, and adjacent place of worship. We choose to go up one of the side staircases on our feet to make a quick visit to the church so that we can be off catch the next bus to the catacombs.
Catacombs of San Callisto - Justin likes these catacombs the best, but they close at noon. We get there just in time for an 11:30 tour in English. The Brother leading the tour has a heavy Philippino accent and is difficult to understand, but we get the jist. Early Christians weren't allowed to bury their dead within the city walls of Rome, so they dug down several levels into the porous tuscia rock. There are four floors of catacombs at San Callisto with 500,000 buried there. There are 60 catacomb locations similar to these in the Rome area holding similar numbers of dead. Started around 150 A.D., San Callisto catacombs were discovered in modern times around 1850 but have been plundered throughout the centuries. We follow our guide down dimly lighted steps and narrow corridors while peering into family tomb areas and alcoves. There are no bones or skeletons to view and it's a good thing we're not prone to claustrophobia. During WWII, people hid down here, but the air can be toxic and it is not advisable to spend long periods down there. After the interesting 40-minute tour, we're off to catch the bus back into town.
San Giovanni in Laterano (Basilica of St. John Lateran) - This is the cathedral of the Church of Rome, Italy, and the official ecclesiastical seat of the Bishop of Rome, who is the Pope. It is the oldest cathedral and ranks first among the four Papal Basilicas. It claims the title of ecumenical mother church of the whole inhabited world among Roman Catholics. As usual, no expense has been spared to create an ostentatious testimony to Catholicism. It is filled top to bottom with gold, murals, statuary, relics, monstrous tombs filled with wealthy patrons, saints, and priests, and lots of beautiful fresh flowers. Something special occurred here earlier and find out that 3,500 priests had gathered for a morning meditation and celebration of "the year of the priest." Apparently, we are in Rome when priests, brothers, sisters, nuns, and other religious officials have come to town from around the world. There are groups of them everywhere.
Pantheon - The Pantheon is another incredible ancient site and has no entrance fee. This area is the heart of Rome and is very busy with mostly walking streets. The Pantheon has been upgraded over the years (since about 1 A.D.) by various emperors and religious dignitaries. Because of its religious significance, it was left alone by barbarians. It is filled with some red granite from the Middle East that no longer exists and is quite valuable. Naturally, the interior is stunning and the construction of the dome is incredible and has been much admired throughout the centuries. Outside in the Piazza Rotunda, a large pep rally of communists have gathered complete with banners and rock band. Justin doesn't have a high opinion of them.
Pommerola Drink - Time for lunch and we head to another of Justin's favorite restaurants, Pommerola Drink, near the Pantheon. There's no A/C indoors so we sit al fresco under a vine covered trellis. The waiters all know Justin. First, we are served a bubbly glass of spumanti. Then come the thin and chewy foccacia bread drizzled with olive oil and herbs, along with our acqua frizzante. I have a spiral twisted pasta with porcini mushrooms and sausage. The mushrooms melt like chunks of butter with each bite. Bob has a clam pasta dish and contorno of grilled red peppers, spinach and mushrooms that are great. Heavenly! Afterwards, we are served a thimbleful of limoncello. Justin warns us that it can pack quite a hit. On a thimbleful? Yes, indeed! But it doesn't do us in. Oh, but it is so good! I'm hooked.
3 Churches and Michael Jackson - We've requested additional three churches to see and Justin hustles us off, determined to grant our wishes. We are not Catholic but it seems as if their churches are always the grandest, most elaborate, and provide an amazing visual sensory overload. (What does God and Jesus really think of all this capitalistic glamour? I'm sure they forgive.) We pop in and out of Santa Maria sopra Minerva, an important church in the Dominican Catholic Order. It has with a little-known Michelangelo statue, Christ Bearing the Cross and a blue painted ceiling with pointed Gothic arches that sparkles with gold stars.
Several blocks away is the Church of San Ignazio with a riot of Baroque illusions with a false dome along with the usual glitter and glimmer. While I don't write many details about San Ignazio, it is stunning edifice and I'm glad I don't have to vote for the most glamorous and ornate church in Rome. It would nearly be a draw.
At the last, we zip into the Gesu Church. Naturally, it is out of this world resplendent with gold, marble, granite, statuary, murals and so on. There is a larger group (200?) of Jesuits: Gesu Church is their mother church. They are all looking straight into a chapel area so we go to check it out. The chapel is lined with columns of lapis lazuli and there is so much gold and silver it is blinding. In the center of it all is an incredible statute covered in gold, silver and lapis.
Justin declares it to be the "Michael Jackson of the Catholic Saints." Later, we discover it to be St. Ignatius, founder of the Jesuits. James and Bob head back toward the main entrance while I wander around taking pictures of St. Iggy. All of a sudden, right in front of my eyes, a painting slowly rolls up to cover the saint. Am I witnessing a secret revelation seldom seen by others? A mystery worthy of angels and demons? I hurry back to the guys and tell them that the statute has been covered. They rush to check it out and are astounded. Later, when reading about the Gesu Church, I discover that every day, at 5:30 p.m., the painting descends down through the floor with loud religious music and spotlights on St. Iggy. What timing it was to see this.
Goodbye Gelato - We've spent three wonderful days with Justin and have come to know him well. We have thoroughly enjoyed our time together and will recommend his guide services to everyone we possibly can. At Old Bridge Gelato I get a cup of cassata, bacio, and inglese while Bob selects walnut, bacio, and pistachio. On our way to the metro, we squirt ourselves with free fragrance samples in a display on the street outside the store. We say our goodbyes at Rome Termini and head home to Soriano.
Wednesday, June 9, 2010
Rome - Day 2 - June 9, 2010
Galleria Doria Pamphilj - We arrive in Rome Termini from Orte with no incident. Justin meets us and takes us first to Galleria Doria Pamphilj. Of all the museums we visited throughout this trip, this gallery is our favorite after the Borghese. Plus, it is nice and cool inside.
Doria Pamphilj is not covered by the Roma Pass. The $9E entry fee comes with an audio guide and is narrated by a contemporary member of the family - which makes the visit especially memorable. Like all churches and palaces, this one is filled with lots of trim work, gilded plaster curlicues, marble statues, and beautiful murals on the ceilings. Plus, the original artworks throughout are spectacular (Rembrandt, Caravaggio, Velazquez, Bruegel, Tintoretto, and even a Bernini - to name a few). This is where I make most of my poster purchases as there are likable images, they are smaller in size and reasonably priced. In the Gallery of Mirrors, I sneak in a few photos only to hear the guard intone, "No photo, Signora." Rats. Busted.
Encounter with Berlisconi - We stroll down the busy and upscale Via del Corso shopping street past Foot Locker, Timberland, Sephora and hundreds of recognizable chain stores. I'd love to see if the products and fashions resemble those in the U.S. All of a sudden a motorcade of motorcycles and about five black cars and vans zip toward us with sirens blaring. Justin says that it is likely that Prime Minister Berlisconi is in one of the cars as the government offices are down the street. As we walk toward a guard house, the street impediments (concrete posts) slowly rise to block any other vehicles from going into a restricted government area.
As we come upon a busy intersection, Justin exclaims that the traffic cop is up on his pedestal. Sure enough, there he is, standing on a small raised platform directing traffic through one of Rome's busiest intersections near the Piazza Venezia. Throughout Rome - as in this intersection - hundreds of mopeds zip around. No driver's license is required and thus, safety procedures are not widely practiced although most people wear helmets. The side streets are house zillions of the buzz bombs parked like sardines.
Lunch with Gusto - We finally reach our lunch stop at 'Gusto and, once again, opt for an indoor table in air conditioned comfort. Gusto is very trendy and the epitome of an Italian bistro. It is hard to describe the décor, especially the glazed white pottery skulls in combination with white vases and glass and worn dark wood cabinetry, but it works. I got busted (again) for taking some photos. The buffet of food was incredible. For $9E you got beer, wine, or soda all you could heap on one plate of hot entrees, shrimp, pasta, and dozens of salads. Those plates were far too small! In the airline magazine on the way home, the author of an article remarked that Gusto was his favorite unknown place to eat. Lucky us! Been there!
Almost Late for a Date - Justin is anxious to leave as we have a 2:30 reservation at the Galleria Borghese Museum. Reservations are mandatory and arrangements were made months in advance. It is one of the places covered by the Roma Pass. But Justin has never been there and doesn't know the way. He asks the waiter and discovers there is no bus or transportation to get there from here. We definitely work off every bit of lunch as we fast walk and half run what seems like a good mile or so to get there. We arrive, wet with sweat, just in time to pick up our tickets and wait for our turn to enter.
'Mama Mia!' The Borghese is incredible, especially in the number of jaw-dropping Bernini statuary. Naturally, the wall and ceiling décor are equally incredible. There is no way to sneak any photo as the camera got checked with the backpacks - mandatory. The top floor is filled with spectacular paintings from all the usual famous artists. Sadly, we are only allowed two hours for the visit. We could have spent more. I wish we had rented the audio guide as those would have made the experience even better. But, we will return - as per the coin toss.
Piazza del Popolo - We wander through some of the beautiful park-like Borghese grounds and wish we had more time to explore. We stop to take in the vista of Rome from an overlook on Pincian Hill below which lies Piazza del Popolo - People's Square. An Egyptian obelisk stands in the center and is of 10 B.C. vintage. The twin churches of Santa Maria in Montesanto and Santa Maria dei Miracoli (both built late 1600s) line the entrance to the Via del Corso shopping street.
Mission Gelato - We are on our evening mission for gelato at Old Bridge. Thankfully, we can hop on a metro and save our feet. This time, Kay branches out for melon (cantaloupe) and Inglese (rum) along with cassata while Bob goes for Bacio, fragola (strawberry), and black cherry. The three of us dodge traffic to head to our regular gelato eating spot - a 3-foot high wall bordering a small grassy area at a bus area. It's the best we can do.
Priestly Intervention - Justin points out a situation occurring between a parked car and the police. The luxury car - parked illegally practically in the middle of the road - and its trendy young couple owners are having a "conversation" as a priest comes running up. We suspect the couple called the priest. First, the priest has a long animated conversation with the ticket police. After awhile, another cop pulls up - this one in a short-sleeve white shirt.
Like a sports commentator, Justin narrates the scene. The white shirt cop is the only one who can do something about the ticket. The priest must be a master negotiator and likely promises a special place in heaven for the cop, his family, and all his relatives. The couple stands quietly out of the way, smirking. I take a picture and James quietly admonishes - "I wouldn't do that if I were you." I thought we were far enough away but I notice one of the ticket police eyeballing me. Justin also notes that the female police officer in the group carries no weight and would never be able to negotiate with any Roman male. The priest continues with grand gestures. After about 15 minutes, apparently the deal is done. The cop and priest shake hands, the couple and priest shake hands. No ticket is issued. The couple departs.
Along comes the street sweeper so we move out of the way. After going up one side, it makes a wide "U" turn in the middle of traffic and goes up the other side - at 6:30 p.m!
Heading Home - We are close to the Vatican, so Justin takes us through St. Peter's Square to get our bearings for our upcoming Vatican tour. We pass by passive deformed beggars and Justin explains that they are usually part of a mafia organization. Apparently, if you cross the mafia the wrong way, they might torture you, cut off limbs, burn your face, or do other horrific things so that - when they send you out to beg - you will attract more money because of your disabilities. Geeze.
We hop a bus to Roma Termini, say buona sera, and take our respective trains home. As I'm writing the trip journal, I observe two Italian women - looking very much like sisters - having what I would call a typical dramatic Italian conversation. It's full of raised voices, dramatic hand gestures, facial expressions, body language, and flipping-chin hand motions - and other gestures that my Italian teacher has demonstrated. It doesn't take a rocket scientist to tell that they are discussing some involvement with an absolute idiot - either their boss, a government official, or a son-in-law are my guesses. It is the best conversation I've seen to date.
Back at the Palazzo it's the usual: bath, laundry, bed.
Doria Pamphilj is not covered by the Roma Pass. The $9E entry fee comes with an audio guide and is narrated by a contemporary member of the family - which makes the visit especially memorable. Like all churches and palaces, this one is filled with lots of trim work, gilded plaster curlicues, marble statues, and beautiful murals on the ceilings. Plus, the original artworks throughout are spectacular (Rembrandt, Caravaggio, Velazquez, Bruegel, Tintoretto, and even a Bernini - to name a few). This is where I make most of my poster purchases as there are likable images, they are smaller in size and reasonably priced. In the Gallery of Mirrors, I sneak in a few photos only to hear the guard intone, "No photo, Signora." Rats. Busted.
Encounter with Berlisconi - We stroll down the busy and upscale Via del Corso shopping street past Foot Locker, Timberland, Sephora and hundreds of recognizable chain stores. I'd love to see if the products and fashions resemble those in the U.S. All of a sudden a motorcade of motorcycles and about five black cars and vans zip toward us with sirens blaring. Justin says that it is likely that Prime Minister Berlisconi is in one of the cars as the government offices are down the street. As we walk toward a guard house, the street impediments (concrete posts) slowly rise to block any other vehicles from going into a restricted government area.
As we come upon a busy intersection, Justin exclaims that the traffic cop is up on his pedestal. Sure enough, there he is, standing on a small raised platform directing traffic through one of Rome's busiest intersections near the Piazza Venezia. Throughout Rome - as in this intersection - hundreds of mopeds zip around. No driver's license is required and thus, safety procedures are not widely practiced although most people wear helmets. The side streets are house zillions of the buzz bombs parked like sardines.
Lunch with Gusto - We finally reach our lunch stop at 'Gusto and, once again, opt for an indoor table in air conditioned comfort. Gusto is very trendy and the epitome of an Italian bistro. It is hard to describe the décor, especially the glazed white pottery skulls in combination with white vases and glass and worn dark wood cabinetry, but it works. I got busted (again) for taking some photos. The buffet of food was incredible. For $9E you got beer, wine, or soda all you could heap on one plate of hot entrees, shrimp, pasta, and dozens of salads. Those plates were far too small! In the airline magazine on the way home, the author of an article remarked that Gusto was his favorite unknown place to eat. Lucky us! Been there!
Almost Late for a Date - Justin is anxious to leave as we have a 2:30 reservation at the Galleria Borghese Museum. Reservations are mandatory and arrangements were made months in advance. It is one of the places covered by the Roma Pass. But Justin has never been there and doesn't know the way. He asks the waiter and discovers there is no bus or transportation to get there from here. We definitely work off every bit of lunch as we fast walk and half run what seems like a good mile or so to get there. We arrive, wet with sweat, just in time to pick up our tickets and wait for our turn to enter.
'Mama Mia!' The Borghese is incredible, especially in the number of jaw-dropping Bernini statuary. Naturally, the wall and ceiling décor are equally incredible. There is no way to sneak any photo as the camera got checked with the backpacks - mandatory. The top floor is filled with spectacular paintings from all the usual famous artists. Sadly, we are only allowed two hours for the visit. We could have spent more. I wish we had rented the audio guide as those would have made the experience even better. But, we will return - as per the coin toss.
Piazza del Popolo - We wander through some of the beautiful park-like Borghese grounds and wish we had more time to explore. We stop to take in the vista of Rome from an overlook on Pincian Hill below which lies Piazza del Popolo - People's Square. An Egyptian obelisk stands in the center and is of 10 B.C. vintage. The twin churches of Santa Maria in Montesanto and Santa Maria dei Miracoli (both built late 1600s) line the entrance to the Via del Corso shopping street.
Mission Gelato - We are on our evening mission for gelato at Old Bridge. Thankfully, we can hop on a metro and save our feet. This time, Kay branches out for melon (cantaloupe) and Inglese (rum) along with cassata while Bob goes for Bacio, fragola (strawberry), and black cherry. The three of us dodge traffic to head to our regular gelato eating spot - a 3-foot high wall bordering a small grassy area at a bus area. It's the best we can do.
Priestly Intervention - Justin points out a situation occurring between a parked car and the police. The luxury car - parked illegally practically in the middle of the road - and its trendy young couple owners are having a "conversation" as a priest comes running up. We suspect the couple called the priest. First, the priest has a long animated conversation with the ticket police. After awhile, another cop pulls up - this one in a short-sleeve white shirt.
Like a sports commentator, Justin narrates the scene. The white shirt cop is the only one who can do something about the ticket. The priest must be a master negotiator and likely promises a special place in heaven for the cop, his family, and all his relatives. The couple stands quietly out of the way, smirking. I take a picture and James quietly admonishes - "I wouldn't do that if I were you." I thought we were far enough away but I notice one of the ticket police eyeballing me. Justin also notes that the female police officer in the group carries no weight and would never be able to negotiate with any Roman male. The priest continues with grand gestures. After about 15 minutes, apparently the deal is done. The cop and priest shake hands, the couple and priest shake hands. No ticket is issued. The couple departs.
Along comes the street sweeper so we move out of the way. After going up one side, it makes a wide "U" turn in the middle of traffic and goes up the other side - at 6:30 p.m!
Heading Home - We are close to the Vatican, so Justin takes us through St. Peter's Square to get our bearings for our upcoming Vatican tour. We pass by passive deformed beggars and Justin explains that they are usually part of a mafia organization. Apparently, if you cross the mafia the wrong way, they might torture you, cut off limbs, burn your face, or do other horrific things so that - when they send you out to beg - you will attract more money because of your disabilities. Geeze.
We hop a bus to Roma Termini, say buona sera, and take our respective trains home. As I'm writing the trip journal, I observe two Italian women - looking very much like sisters - having what I would call a typical dramatic Italian conversation. It's full of raised voices, dramatic hand gestures, facial expressions, body language, and flipping-chin hand motions - and other gestures that my Italian teacher has demonstrated. It doesn't take a rocket scientist to tell that they are discussing some involvement with an absolute idiot - either their boss, a government official, or a son-in-law are my guesses. It is the best conversation I've seen to date.
Back at the Palazzo it's the usual: bath, laundry, bed.
Tuesday, June 8, 2010
Rome - Day One - June 8, 2010
Orte to Rome - We're up at 5:45 a.m. for our first day in Rome. We want to arrive at the Orte train station by 8:30 a.m. in case parking is an issue. Like getting anywhere in Italy, the station route isn't exactly straightforward and the GPS helps a lot, along with the map from Palazzo. About 25 minutes later, we pull into a parking spot but can see how difficult it could be if we arrived much later. All-day parking tickets are about $1E vended from an easy-to-use dispenser.
At the ticket office, we can buy a 3-day ($25E) or 7-day ($33E) sequential pass that covers all the train and transportation in Rome. Three sequential days in Rome with our guide using the Roma Pass (which must also be used in 3 sequential days and covers all Rome transportation except the Orte commute train) have been planned. Our Vatican tour will take place eight days hence. The 3-day pass is cheaper than individual daily tickets and it covers all transportation in Rome, so it works best. We'll buy an individual ticket for the fourth trip.
There's no problem catching the right train to Rome Termini. (There is only one stop just before it.) We're there on time (10:30 a.m.) and spot the ex-pat guide, Justin, with whom we've arranged via email to take us around Rome. He was recommended to us by a former Palazzo guest (Vickie is a realtor in Florida) that Kay met through email exchanges.
Roman Guide is a Smart Move - Being independent do-it-your-selfers, we were reluctant to budget for a personal guide in Rome. However, at the end of the three days, we saw far more things with far less stress and hassle than on our own. Like sheep, we follow Justin all around hopping on and off the right buses, metro stops, across the streets and down the best shortcuts with nary a care in the world.
Although an ex-pat American, Justin speaks fluent Italian and definitely knows his way around. Plus, he tells us all sorts of tidbits about life in Italy. James has just enough knowledge about the sites to help us understand the significance of each but we aren't overwhelmed with factoids. Part of the agreement when working with Justin was providing all his transportation, entry fees, and meals in Rome. He asks only for an unspecific donation to his Christian mission, which provides refugee relief. He is an angel sent to bless our journey; we hope our donation was fair.
The Colosseum is our first stop to claim our Roma Passes. Oh, no! It is closed until noon for cleanup from a previous evening's event. If we weren't with James, this would have thrown us for a loop. Instead, he takes us past all the fake and fierce photo-opp-gladiators-for-hire to the Forum entrance to try and claim the Roma Passes. No luck there, either.
Basilica of San Clemente - On the fly, Justin reverses the day's schedule and we head off for the Church of San Clemente, which has three levels. A young man greets us at the doorway and Justin brushes past him saying that he is not official and is just looking for a handout. It costs $5E to enter for each of us.
The bottom two floors have been excavated to reveal a subterranean pagan level from the 1st century at the bottom, and a 4th century medieval Christian basilica. The top most basilica on the ground floor was constructed in the 12th century. It is also the first time we hear Justin quip, "The Catholics really like their relics." Obviously, Justin isn't of Catholic persuasion. And, lest any readers are offended by his remark, remember that the gospel according to St. Matthew proclaims: "Judge not, that ye be not judged...For in the same way you judge others, you will be judged."
Colosseum - The Colosseum is now open and Justin guides us to the no-line window to collect our Roma Passes. These passes zip us past everyone else in line. Justin explains that the Colosseum is held together with brick. It is referred to as "new" whereas the stone blocks are original. Some of that brick is rather old, though. To think that we are here at last, walking around a structure built in 70-80 A.D. is such a privilege and overwhelming. Because we have arrived ahead of many crowds, there is ample opportunity for great photos and views. There's a good exhibit of gladiator garb, armor, helmets, and assorted weaponry plus a five-minute film that gives a flavor of the place in days gone by. It has me wondering - if I lived back then - whether I would have willingly observed the bloody games that took place.
Palatine Hill and Roman Forum - On the way to the Roman Forum entry is the Arch of Constantine, erected c. 315. It is the largest of only three such arches to survive in Rome today. The other two are the Arch of Titus and Arch of Septimius Severus, both in the nearby Forum. They were all erected to commemorate significant battle victories.
Justin quickly gets us entered into the Forum and hoofing it up to Palatine Hill. We view lots of ancient half buildings, walls, columns, and marble remains of original floors that we tromp across just like the Romans did. Imagine that.
The Roman Forum is located in a valley that is between the Palatine hill and the Capitoline hill. It originally was a marsh, but the Romans drained the area and turned it into a center of political and social activity. The Forum was the marketplace of Rome and also the business district and civic center. It was expanded to include temples, a senate house and law courts. When the Roman Empire fell, the Forum became forgotten, buried and was used as a cattle pasture during the Middle Ages. Even if it has been rebuilt, it is pretty spectacular with huge columns, buildings, and stone chunks lying around. The house of the vestal virgins, assorted arches, columns, the steps where Julius Caesar was murdered. Amazing to imagine that Caesar and his sidekick stars walked through these areas. It is hot today and the Forum is dusty and full of loose rock and gravel. Closed toe shoes and protection against the sun with hats, long-sleeved shirts and umbrellas are very common.
A Bite at Bibo's - The temperature is rising and we head to a favorite restaurant of Justin that he has selected on our behalf. As we cross through a major intersection (with crosswalk), he points out a round section in the center that can be raised for a traffic cop to stand on and direct traffic. He also explains not to be timid crossing the street as it is the law that cars must stop for pedestrians in crosswalks. Hmmm...that's the law in the states, too, but mistakes get made.
At Bibo's (Piazza dei SS Apostoli N. 58), we head for an inside table and the blissful A/C. Justin recommends the grilled mozzarella for an appetizer ($6.50E) and it is definitely yummy: crisp outside and creamy inside. I order a fabulous lasagna ($8E), Bob goes for Pasta Carbonara Amatricia (spicy spaghetti with pancetta and chilies-$7.50E), and Justin has pasta with porcini mushrooms ($10E). We quickly down two liters of acqua frizzante ($7E). Our total bill is $39E and James instructs us to leave about $3E on the table ($1E/person) even though it is not mandatory.
King of Italy - After lunch, we wander by this massive white monument - also known as the Altar of the Fatherland - that is attributed to Vittorio Emanuele II of Savoia, first king of Italy. It occupies a site between the Piazza Venezia and the Capitoline Hill. The monument was designed by Giuseppe Sacconi in 1895 and was completed in 1935. To build it, some of prehistoric Capitoline Hill was destroyed and many feel it is too ostentatious.
Capitoline Hill - Adjacent to the "Vittoriano" is Capitoline Hill. We climb Michelangelo's stairs to the top and the twin Capitoline Museum buildings, which we will visit on our next trip. At the back side are wonderful overlooks and photo opps of the Roman Forum. In one of the buildings, Justin explains that brides and grooms get their wedding certificates. It is not uncommon to see a long line of them with adjacent carriages and limos. Unfortunately, we don't get to see any.
3 Coins in the Fountain - Trevi Fountain is next on the list. "Taming of the water" is the theme of this huge Baroque water art. There is so much to look at and take in that it is simply impossible to do in one visit. Justin took a picture of us throwing our requisite coins in the fountain, thus ensuring our return to Rome. We pop in for a quick look at San Claudio Church which is - naturally - ornate and lovely.
Piazza Navona - The lovely Piazza Navona was an important square for "games" in ancient times. During more recent times, it was known for a place where artists painted and sold their own work. Today, it is all commercial booths selling the same old art one finds all over Rome. Mimes are available for photo opps and watching them is fun. There are two gigantic fountains by famous artists where people sit and rest and watch life trickle by. The square is also used by many locals and their families for escaping the confines of apartments. We also browse through the Church of Nostra Signora del Sacro Cuore (Our Lady of the Sacred Heart). As we wander through the side streets, we pick our way through a large group of men in suits outside a formal building all having a smoke and drinking coffee. Justin says they are legislators taking a break. I'm impressed that we can simply wander through these people.
Spanish Steps - Next, we cruise by the infamous Spanish Steps with Piazza di Spagna at the base. There is one of many free potable drinking spigots here and we fill our water bottles with the promise from Rick Steves that it is safe to do so. The Steps are packed with people and it is getting late, so we don't take time to sit on them. There are many ritzy designer shops in the area that we wander past without even the slightest temptation. Who needs that stuff anyway? But James points out some of his favorites along the way.
Gelato Time - After our big lunch, the only thing we have room for is gelato. We decide it will do just fine as a meal replacement for dinner. Justin declares that we are "his" kind of people! He takes us to the very best place in Rome for gelato. Old Bridge Gelato is not particularly well known by the tourist crowd and guidebooks so it is a real find. Wow! Huge $2E cups with three flavors. We pass on the offer for whipped cream. Kay discovers the flavor, cassata, which is slightly orange flavored and mixed with finely minced candied dried fruit. James declares it is his favorite. Nocciola (hazelnut) is fabulous and Bacio (a famous candy from Perugia) a touch more decadent, while the coconut is studded with bits - which Bob almost always gets. Justin says he has ridden the train 90 minutes just to get some. We head across the street to sit on a waist high concrete wall that abuts a tiny bit of lawn at a bus transfer location...and savor the best gelato in the world.
Home Again - We walk to the Metro A stop and head back to Rome Termini, where Justin sees that we get on the right train. We're in Orte at 8:30 and head directly back to the Palazzo where bath, laundry, and bed are the order of the day. Grateful to hit the sack, we open wide our heavy sashed windows to the cool quiet of the village and the dark Italian sky. All is quiet. Everyone in Soriano has gone to bed.
At the ticket office, we can buy a 3-day ($25E) or 7-day ($33E) sequential pass that covers all the train and transportation in Rome. Three sequential days in Rome with our guide using the Roma Pass (which must also be used in 3 sequential days and covers all Rome transportation except the Orte commute train) have been planned. Our Vatican tour will take place eight days hence. The 3-day pass is cheaper than individual daily tickets and it covers all transportation in Rome, so it works best. We'll buy an individual ticket for the fourth trip.
There's no problem catching the right train to Rome Termini. (There is only one stop just before it.) We're there on time (10:30 a.m.) and spot the ex-pat guide, Justin, with whom we've arranged via email to take us around Rome. He was recommended to us by a former Palazzo guest (Vickie is a realtor in Florida) that Kay met through email exchanges.
Roman Guide is a Smart Move - Being independent do-it-your-selfers, we were reluctant to budget for a personal guide in Rome. However, at the end of the three days, we saw far more things with far less stress and hassle than on our own. Like sheep, we follow Justin all around hopping on and off the right buses, metro stops, across the streets and down the best shortcuts with nary a care in the world.
Although an ex-pat American, Justin speaks fluent Italian and definitely knows his way around. Plus, he tells us all sorts of tidbits about life in Italy. James has just enough knowledge about the sites to help us understand the significance of each but we aren't overwhelmed with factoids. Part of the agreement when working with Justin was providing all his transportation, entry fees, and meals in Rome. He asks only for an unspecific donation to his Christian mission, which provides refugee relief. He is an angel sent to bless our journey; we hope our donation was fair.
The Colosseum is our first stop to claim our Roma Passes. Oh, no! It is closed until noon for cleanup from a previous evening's event. If we weren't with James, this would have thrown us for a loop. Instead, he takes us past all the fake and fierce photo-opp-gladiators-for-hire to the Forum entrance to try and claim the Roma Passes. No luck there, either.
Basilica of San Clemente - On the fly, Justin reverses the day's schedule and we head off for the Church of San Clemente, which has three levels. A young man greets us at the doorway and Justin brushes past him saying that he is not official and is just looking for a handout. It costs $5E to enter for each of us.
The bottom two floors have been excavated to reveal a subterranean pagan level from the 1st century at the bottom, and a 4th century medieval Christian basilica. The top most basilica on the ground floor was constructed in the 12th century. It is also the first time we hear Justin quip, "The Catholics really like their relics." Obviously, Justin isn't of Catholic persuasion. And, lest any readers are offended by his remark, remember that the gospel according to St. Matthew proclaims: "Judge not, that ye be not judged...For in the same way you judge others, you will be judged."
Colosseum - The Colosseum is now open and Justin guides us to the no-line window to collect our Roma Passes. These passes zip us past everyone else in line. Justin explains that the Colosseum is held together with brick. It is referred to as "new" whereas the stone blocks are original. Some of that brick is rather old, though. To think that we are here at last, walking around a structure built in 70-80 A.D. is such a privilege and overwhelming. Because we have arrived ahead of many crowds, there is ample opportunity for great photos and views. There's a good exhibit of gladiator garb, armor, helmets, and assorted weaponry plus a five-minute film that gives a flavor of the place in days gone by. It has me wondering - if I lived back then - whether I would have willingly observed the bloody games that took place.
Palatine Hill and Roman Forum - On the way to the Roman Forum entry is the Arch of Constantine, erected c. 315. It is the largest of only three such arches to survive in Rome today. The other two are the Arch of Titus and Arch of Septimius Severus, both in the nearby Forum. They were all erected to commemorate significant battle victories.
Justin quickly gets us entered into the Forum and hoofing it up to Palatine Hill. We view lots of ancient half buildings, walls, columns, and marble remains of original floors that we tromp across just like the Romans did. Imagine that.
The Roman Forum is located in a valley that is between the Palatine hill and the Capitoline hill. It originally was a marsh, but the Romans drained the area and turned it into a center of political and social activity. The Forum was the marketplace of Rome and also the business district and civic center. It was expanded to include temples, a senate house and law courts. When the Roman Empire fell, the Forum became forgotten, buried and was used as a cattle pasture during the Middle Ages. Even if it has been rebuilt, it is pretty spectacular with huge columns, buildings, and stone chunks lying around. The house of the vestal virgins, assorted arches, columns, the steps where Julius Caesar was murdered. Amazing to imagine that Caesar and his sidekick stars walked through these areas. It is hot today and the Forum is dusty and full of loose rock and gravel. Closed toe shoes and protection against the sun with hats, long-sleeved shirts and umbrellas are very common.
A Bite at Bibo's - The temperature is rising and we head to a favorite restaurant of Justin that he has selected on our behalf. As we cross through a major intersection (with crosswalk), he points out a round section in the center that can be raised for a traffic cop to stand on and direct traffic. He also explains not to be timid crossing the street as it is the law that cars must stop for pedestrians in crosswalks. Hmmm...that's the law in the states, too, but mistakes get made.
At Bibo's (Piazza dei SS Apostoli N. 58), we head for an inside table and the blissful A/C. Justin recommends the grilled mozzarella for an appetizer ($6.50E) and it is definitely yummy: crisp outside and creamy inside. I order a fabulous lasagna ($8E), Bob goes for Pasta Carbonara Amatricia (spicy spaghetti with pancetta and chilies-$7.50E), and Justin has pasta with porcini mushrooms ($10E). We quickly down two liters of acqua frizzante ($7E). Our total bill is $39E and James instructs us to leave about $3E on the table ($1E/person) even though it is not mandatory.
King of Italy - After lunch, we wander by this massive white monument - also known as the Altar of the Fatherland - that is attributed to Vittorio Emanuele II of Savoia, first king of Italy. It occupies a site between the Piazza Venezia and the Capitoline Hill. The monument was designed by Giuseppe Sacconi in 1895 and was completed in 1935. To build it, some of prehistoric Capitoline Hill was destroyed and many feel it is too ostentatious.
Capitoline Hill - Adjacent to the "Vittoriano" is Capitoline Hill. We climb Michelangelo's stairs to the top and the twin Capitoline Museum buildings, which we will visit on our next trip. At the back side are wonderful overlooks and photo opps of the Roman Forum. In one of the buildings, Justin explains that brides and grooms get their wedding certificates. It is not uncommon to see a long line of them with adjacent carriages and limos. Unfortunately, we don't get to see any.
3 Coins in the Fountain - Trevi Fountain is next on the list. "Taming of the water" is the theme of this huge Baroque water art. There is so much to look at and take in that it is simply impossible to do in one visit. Justin took a picture of us throwing our requisite coins in the fountain, thus ensuring our return to Rome. We pop in for a quick look at San Claudio Church which is - naturally - ornate and lovely.
Piazza Navona - The lovely Piazza Navona was an important square for "games" in ancient times. During more recent times, it was known for a place where artists painted and sold their own work. Today, it is all commercial booths selling the same old art one finds all over Rome. Mimes are available for photo opps and watching them is fun. There are two gigantic fountains by famous artists where people sit and rest and watch life trickle by. The square is also used by many locals and their families for escaping the confines of apartments. We also browse through the Church of Nostra Signora del Sacro Cuore (Our Lady of the Sacred Heart). As we wander through the side streets, we pick our way through a large group of men in suits outside a formal building all having a smoke and drinking coffee. Justin says they are legislators taking a break. I'm impressed that we can simply wander through these people.
Spanish Steps - Next, we cruise by the infamous Spanish Steps with Piazza di Spagna at the base. There is one of many free potable drinking spigots here and we fill our water bottles with the promise from Rick Steves that it is safe to do so. The Steps are packed with people and it is getting late, so we don't take time to sit on them. There are many ritzy designer shops in the area that we wander past without even the slightest temptation. Who needs that stuff anyway? But James points out some of his favorites along the way.
Gelato Time - After our big lunch, the only thing we have room for is gelato. We decide it will do just fine as a meal replacement for dinner. Justin declares that we are "his" kind of people! He takes us to the very best place in Rome for gelato. Old Bridge Gelato is not particularly well known by the tourist crowd and guidebooks so it is a real find. Wow! Huge $2E cups with three flavors. We pass on the offer for whipped cream. Kay discovers the flavor, cassata, which is slightly orange flavored and mixed with finely minced candied dried fruit. James declares it is his favorite. Nocciola (hazelnut) is fabulous and Bacio (a famous candy from Perugia) a touch more decadent, while the coconut is studded with bits - which Bob almost always gets. Justin says he has ridden the train 90 minutes just to get some. We head across the street to sit on a waist high concrete wall that abuts a tiny bit of lawn at a bus transfer location...and savor the best gelato in the world.
Home Again - We walk to the Metro A stop and head back to Rome Termini, where Justin sees that we get on the right train. We're in Orte at 8:30 and head directly back to the Palazzo where bath, laundry, and bed are the order of the day. Grateful to hit the sack, we open wide our heavy sashed windows to the cool quiet of the village and the dark Italian sky. All is quiet. Everyone in Soriano has gone to bed.
Monday, June 7, 2010
Village of Vitorchiano - Late afternoon - June 7, 2010
Typical Italian Hill Town - It is wonderful to get back in the car and crank up the AC. The village of Vitorchiano is not far from Bomarzo (home of the infamous "monster park") It rises up out of a high promontory hill. Located a few miles from Viterbo, Vitorchiano is protected by two deep ravines which allow access to the town only through a short stretch of land. Thus there is only one gate in the medieval walls which protect Vitorchiano.
Tuff Tuscia - Many little towns of Central Italy like Vitorchiano were built on sites that were easily defensible. The area around the District of Viterbo (in the province of Lazio) is made of tuffaceous rock. Even small streams can carve out sections of land which, through the centuries, provide places where towns can safely sprout. Tuscia rock is strong and easily carved into rooms and caves (wine cellars, garages, etc.) that are prevalent throughout the area.
Photo Opp Spot - The view of Vitorchiano from the other side of the ravine is supposed to provide an impressive photo opp. Miraculously, we find a large, safe parking area and I snap away to my heart's content, even though the light isn't ideal. On the other hand, the view shows how every centimeter of available space on the promontory was fully used. Houses are built to the very edge of the precipice and seem to melt down into the rock. It is possible that many of them have dug down several stories.
Vitorchiano is rumored to have one of the best-preserved medieval historic centers in Tuscia, as well as a system of region-wide pathways to archaeological sites, religious shrines, and nature preserves in the ravine below. I regret that we didn't venture into the town, but finding parking is always dicey and we were weary. Plus, the day was hot, we had plenty of walking in the monster park, we had no desire to hike the long path from town to the valley below Vitorchiano regardless of how many Etruscan ruins might lie there.
Winding Down - It's now about 4 p.m., and the busy days preceding this have drained our energy. The cost of this kind of trip means we must (or want to) max our time with as much sightseeing and adventures as possible. This is not the kind of trip for kicking back and reading a book...or email.
Internet access at the Palazzo is very expensive - like $10 E for an hour - so we stay disconnected for the remaining two weeks of our trip. Amazing how delightful this is!
We are excited about having a big salad for dinner. Our teensy kitchenette area requires efficient use. We get our greens washed, dried, chopped, and tossed with olive oil and balsamic vinegar. (We learn later from our ex-pat Floridian guide in Rome, Justin, that Italians use bio fertilizer - polite for poop - and Italians typically use a special product for cleaning their produce. Justin hopes we've washed it well. Well, gads. Just like Mexico. I hoped we washed it good, too, although we haven't gotten sick. Makes me think twice about salads.) For protein, we toss in chopped ham and cheese. With monster bowls in hand, we head off to the pleasant Palazzo garden below and the white upholstered furniture. Our salads disappear, accompanied by a delicious, local white wine - Est! Est! Est! - is produced in nearby Montefiascone.
As the sun sets, the evening troops of swallows swoop and dive kaleidoscope-cloud flocks. A couple of well-fed cats cruise the yard, but refuse any handouts as they disappear into the bushes. We head up to the room to do dishes, take baths and wash cloths. A little reading brings a dozy end to the day as we snuggle in the four-poster bed with the billowing curtains and view of the starry skies out the open windows.
Tuff Tuscia - Many little towns of Central Italy like Vitorchiano were built on sites that were easily defensible. The area around the District of Viterbo (in the province of Lazio) is made of tuffaceous rock. Even small streams can carve out sections of land which, through the centuries, provide places where towns can safely sprout. Tuscia rock is strong and easily carved into rooms and caves (wine cellars, garages, etc.) that are prevalent throughout the area.
Photo Opp Spot - The view of Vitorchiano from the other side of the ravine is supposed to provide an impressive photo opp. Miraculously, we find a large, safe parking area and I snap away to my heart's content, even though the light isn't ideal. On the other hand, the view shows how every centimeter of available space on the promontory was fully used. Houses are built to the very edge of the precipice and seem to melt down into the rock. It is possible that many of them have dug down several stories.
Vitorchiano is rumored to have one of the best-preserved medieval historic centers in Tuscia, as well as a system of region-wide pathways to archaeological sites, religious shrines, and nature preserves in the ravine below. I regret that we didn't venture into the town, but finding parking is always dicey and we were weary. Plus, the day was hot, we had plenty of walking in the monster park, we had no desire to hike the long path from town to the valley below Vitorchiano regardless of how many Etruscan ruins might lie there.
Winding Down - It's now about 4 p.m., and the busy days preceding this have drained our energy. The cost of this kind of trip means we must (or want to) max our time with as much sightseeing and adventures as possible. This is not the kind of trip for kicking back and reading a book...or email.
Internet access at the Palazzo is very expensive - like $10 E for an hour - so we stay disconnected for the remaining two weeks of our trip. Amazing how delightful this is!
We are excited about having a big salad for dinner. Our teensy kitchenette area requires efficient use. We get our greens washed, dried, chopped, and tossed with olive oil and balsamic vinegar. (We learn later from our ex-pat Floridian guide in Rome, Justin, that Italians use bio fertilizer - polite for poop - and Italians typically use a special product for cleaning their produce. Justin hopes we've washed it well. Well, gads. Just like Mexico. I hoped we washed it good, too, although we haven't gotten sick. Makes me think twice about salads.) For protein, we toss in chopped ham and cheese. With monster bowls in hand, we head off to the pleasant Palazzo garden below and the white upholstered furniture. Our salads disappear, accompanied by a delicious, local white wine - Est! Est! Est! - is produced in nearby Montefiascone.
As the sun sets, the evening troops of swallows swoop and dive kaleidoscope-cloud flocks. A couple of well-fed cats cruise the yard, but refuse any handouts as they disappear into the bushes. We head up to the room to do dishes, take baths and wash cloths. A little reading brings a dozy end to the day as we snuggle in the four-poster bed with the billowing curtains and view of the starry skies out the open windows.
Bomarzo Park of Monsters - early afternoon June 7, 2010
The Sacred Grove - After our shopping trip downtown, we fix sandwiches in the Palazzo and gather picnic supplies for a picnic lunch at Bomarzo, otherwise dubbed "the Sacred Grove (Bosco Sacro) or Park of Monsters." It is supposed to be a must-see in the Lazio region, which is where we are staying. It is also a popular side trip from Rome. Between the directions from Palazzo and the GPS, we easily arrive in under 30 minutes as the park is about 8 miles (13 km) away from Soriano. Of course, driving on the narrow, winding roads of Italy takes far longer than in the states. Plus, we are especially careful to stay within the speed limit of about 35 mph.
We pay our $9E entry fee each and receive permission to picnic at some white plastic tables tucked under trees. There is a group of children on a school outing of some kind noisily having a delightful time on the playground equipment. Other than those children, the park has very few visitors on a week day, and a big group of tourists just left.
After tucking the picnic remains back in the car, and a pitt stop in the toilette, we head off to find the monster sculptures.
16th Century Horror Show - The Park of the Monsters, or "Parco dei Mostri," in the Garden of Bomarzo was not meant to be pretty. Commissioned in 1552 by Prince Pier Francesco Orsini, it was an expression of grief designed to shock.
The Prince, also known as Vicino, had just been through a brutal war, had his friend killed, been held for ransom for years, and come home only to have his beloved wife die. Racked with grief, the Prince wanted to create a shocking "Villa of Wonders." There are two rumored architects of the park. One is architect Pirro Ligorio who had completed the Cathedral of Saint Peter in Rome after the death of Michelangelo, as well as the Villa d'Este in Tivoli. Apparently, recent evidence strongly suggests that is was designed by Michelangelo himself, with the work carried out by his students.
The park is filled with bizarre and fascinating sculptures for which only the accompanying inscriptions provide any explanation. Among the pieces are a war elephant, a monstrous fish-head, a giant tearing another giant in half, and a house built on a tilt to disorient the viewer. Perhaps the most frightening piece in the garden is an enormous head, mouth opened wide in a scream. The accompanying inscription reads "all reason departs." The final addition indicates that perhaps he was getting over his melancholy. Built 20 years after the park was begun, it is not a monster but a temple, built to honor his second wife.
Built during the Italian Renaissance, the garden layout bore little resemblance to the symmetry of other Renaissance gardens, and the art was made in a rough "Mannerist" style, a sort of 16th-century version of Surrealism. Salvador Dalí was so inspired, he shot a short film here, and the sculptures inspired his 1946 painting The Temptation of Saint Anthony. Jean Cocteau was also a fan of the park. Other artists followed, and a novel, libretto, and opera have all been based on the park.
There were signs all over warning visitors not to take photos. We figure it's simply a standard procedure whether it is enforced or not. We chose to ignore the signs and proceeded to take numerous self portraits everywhere with the aid of the trusty travel tripod. The statutes have held up well for over 700 years, but they are definitely showing wear and losing many of their original details. The park is nicely shaded; nevertheless, it is humid and we leave a sweaty two hours later having thoroughly visited and enjoyed the monster park.
We pay our $9E entry fee each and receive permission to picnic at some white plastic tables tucked under trees. There is a group of children on a school outing of some kind noisily having a delightful time on the playground equipment. Other than those children, the park has very few visitors on a week day, and a big group of tourists just left.
After tucking the picnic remains back in the car, and a pitt stop in the toilette, we head off to find the monster sculptures.
16th Century Horror Show - The Park of the Monsters, or "Parco dei Mostri," in the Garden of Bomarzo was not meant to be pretty. Commissioned in 1552 by Prince Pier Francesco Orsini, it was an expression of grief designed to shock.
The Prince, also known as Vicino, had just been through a brutal war, had his friend killed, been held for ransom for years, and come home only to have his beloved wife die. Racked with grief, the Prince wanted to create a shocking "Villa of Wonders." There are two rumored architects of the park. One is architect Pirro Ligorio who had completed the Cathedral of Saint Peter in Rome after the death of Michelangelo, as well as the Villa d'Este in Tivoli. Apparently, recent evidence strongly suggests that is was designed by Michelangelo himself, with the work carried out by his students.
The park is filled with bizarre and fascinating sculptures for which only the accompanying inscriptions provide any explanation. Among the pieces are a war elephant, a monstrous fish-head, a giant tearing another giant in half, and a house built on a tilt to disorient the viewer. Perhaps the most frightening piece in the garden is an enormous head, mouth opened wide in a scream. The accompanying inscription reads "all reason departs." The final addition indicates that perhaps he was getting over his melancholy. Built 20 years after the park was begun, it is not a monster but a temple, built to honor his second wife.
Built during the Italian Renaissance, the garden layout bore little resemblance to the symmetry of other Renaissance gardens, and the art was made in a rough "Mannerist" style, a sort of 16th-century version of Surrealism. Salvador Dalí was so inspired, he shot a short film here, and the sculptures inspired his 1946 painting The Temptation of Saint Anthony. Jean Cocteau was also a fan of the park. Other artists followed, and a novel, libretto, and opera have all been based on the park.
There were signs all over warning visitors not to take photos. We figure it's simply a standard procedure whether it is enforced or not. We chose to ignore the signs and proceeded to take numerous self portraits everywhere with the aid of the trusty travel tripod. The statutes have held up well for over 700 years, but they are definitely showing wear and losing many of their original details. The park is nicely shaded; nevertheless, it is humid and we leave a sweaty two hours later having thoroughly visited and enjoyed the monster park.
Sunday, June 6, 2010
Assisi - afternoon of June 6, 2010
Negotiating Assisi - After consulting maps and setting the GPS, we're off for an afternoon of sightseeing to Assisi - about 20 miles north of Spello. We end up taking an exit too soon, and wander around some of the back roads before driving our way onto a main road. It isn't always easy to find the parking lots designated in guide books, especially when one takes an alternate way into town. Hence, printed google-type maps of the roads around a town are helpful.
We ended up in the Parking Mojano (Moiano?) lot in the southeast part of town. We bought our parking ticket but don't quite remember how much it was - maybe about $5E/day ($8 US). Rick Steves' book said there's an escalator - all we found was an elevator. There is still a bit of a hike up a hill and steps - not unusual for any Italian hill town. The streets are narrow, cobbled, and not really meant for cars although occasionally, a few sneak on through. It's quite hot this afternoon and the sun reflection is strong. Although I have applied sunscreen on my face and arms, I discover later later that my calves were overexposed - usually not a problem for my olive-toned color.
Trattoria da Erminio - Steves' book has recommended this restaurant as charming, with peaceful tables on a tiny square or indoor seating under a big, medieval, brick vault. Run by Federico and his family for three generations, they specialize in local meats cooked on an open-fire grill. Since it is close to 2 p.m. and restaurants close at 3 p.m., we head directly for lunch. Luckily, an outdoor table in shade opens up and Federico graciously sets it up. We share an antipasto of artichoke bottoms (1.80 E) and primi of thick spaghetti-like noodles dressed with olive oil and truffle sauce (11 E). Delicioso!
We both order the grilled meat plates with small portions each of sausage, lamb, chicken, and pork (12 E/each). It is served the Italian way with nothing else on the plate for decoration. The meat is smoky and wonderful. Bob gets a cortorno of tomatoes (7.6 E), and downed with a liter of ice cold aqua frizzante (fizzy water -2E) and 1/2 liter of red wine (6 E). It is a pleasant meal enjoyed on the quiet, shady corner of a little square. Our bill comes to 56.40E which includes the price for the privilege of eating outside for 4E. $70 U.S. for lunch is definitely spendy.
Tromping Assisi - Because we're in the neighborhood, we head toward Porta Perlici in the northwest end of town with hopes of seeing a Roman amphitheater. Along the way, we pass through a small plaza where a group of local women and men are gathered harvesting flower petals. It seems to be a fairly casual group - the primary goal is visiting. There are a couple of small floral designs that children and others are working on. It's actually quite refreshing to observe this little group nestled in conversation with the communal effort of doing something for Corpus Domini. What a difference this scene is from the large, very organized artists in Spello.
At the Porta Perlici location, we see some views of the "green heart of Italy," in the Umbrian hills. The ruined castle, Rocca Maggiore, is in the distance. It took awhile to find, but we eventually locate the Roman amphitheater from the first century, A.D. It's surrounded by homes and buildings built in the 13th and 14th centuries and the amphitheater doesn't feel like a big deal. Roman aqueducts abound throughout Italy - it's remarkable to see them and yet the Italians take these antiquities completely for granted. They are simply part of their life, grounding them intrinsically to their historical past.
Arches, Artisans and Antiquities - We try to stick to Rick Steves' recommended city walk and I think that, for the most part, we accomplish it with a wrong turn here and there. All the houses/apartments are stone and many have plaques that say "Pace Bene," which means pass in peace or good peace, or something wise like that. In the center, at the large, open Piazza del Comune, there is much Roman Forum history to behold with 16th century frescoes on the walls in the old market, Roman baths and cisterns, and the Temple of Minerva. There is a large fountain in the "square" and artisan and souvenir shops line the sides. The wide piazza is filled with stone and nary a bit of greenery in sight - thus making it very hot. There are plenty of nuns, sisters, brothers, and monks striding around that contribute to the sense of authenticity.
The six fluted Corinthian columns of the Temple of Minerva dominate the Roman forum in the Piazza. The Church of Santa Maria sopra ("over") Minerva was added in the ninth century. We pop into the blessedly cool interior that is predominantly blue and 17th-century Baroque gilt. Flanking the altar are the original Roman temple floor stones with drains for bloody sacrifices.
House of Shhhhhhhhhhhhh- We arrive at the Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi with no clear direction of where to go. Although Steves' book is very informative, the crowds of people and the choices of where to enter leave us confused. We enter through a grand doorway of the lower basilica and end up in the tomb where St. Francis' remains are above the altar in a stone box with iron ties. The basilica itself was built as a testament to St. Francis' life of peace and poverty. He would never have dwelt in such a structure as it would be a contradiction to his beliefs. Although St. Francis came from Assisi, he is considered more to be a saint of all Italy. The basilica was constructed (12th-13th centuries) and painted with representative fresco murals of the saint's life by some of the famous painters of the time such as Giotto and Lorenzetti.
The upper basilica is considered to be the first Gothic church in Italy and locals claim it has the oldest stained glass in Italy. Unlike most Catholic churches in Italy, this basilica is remarkable in the lack of gold and gilt everywhere. Instead, it is lined with murals by Giotto depicting the life of St. Francis. Nearly every surface is painted but there is more of a symmetrical or Moroccan feel to the paint patterns. It is lovely. The ceiling is painted with a seemingly simple and luminescent color of blue and green, mostly likely representing the heavens.
We don't spend much time contemplating the murals. They are beautiful and very significant. While we wander the church, every few minutes as the sound levels rose, a man - likely a brother or monk - intones in a very deep monotone, "Quiet. Quiet, please. Quiet," followed by a long, sonorous, "shhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh." Everyone respects the request for a few minutes until their voices crescendo again, and "the voice" once again admonishes everyone to pipe down. I began to wonder if it was a real person or simply a recording set to play at certain intervals. Because the basilica is a house of worship, there is a constant struggle between the prayerful faithful and the admiring tourists. In almost every church there is a section set aside "for prayer only," which is a nice touch for those who wish to do so.
Assisi's Patron Saint - We are doing our best to absorb every history-filled moment. St. Francis of Assisi might be the homeboy, but the patron saint of Assisi is Rufino (the town's first bishop, martyred and buried here in the third century). We pop in to take a look at his church, which has some peek holes into some ruins and a Roman cistern. This is all very cool stuff and - no disrespect intended - it looks pretty much like a bunch of golden dirt with stones and bricks. More remarkable to me was photographing two ladies out in the courtyard dressed in the most outlandish tourist getups I came across. You'll recognize them in the accompanying photos in their floral skirts, red and white crocheted sweater vests, backpacks and straw garden hats.
St. Francis' Groupie - The female counterpart, and biggest fan of St. Francis' philosophy was St. Clare. Both were from Assisi, and the 18-year old rich girl fell in love with 30-year old Francis' message. Clare left her distraught parents and adopted a life of abject poverty. She was eventually joined by other women who banded together as the Poor Clares. She spent the next 40 years of her life within her convent barefoot, vegetarian, and mostly silent. The Basilica of St. Clare was built in 1265. It is elegant in its grandness yet appropriately sparse.
At the opposite end of her crypt downstairs were relics I found most interesting. These included her rough robes, her long hair that she had cut off, a tunic she made, and some relics of St. Francis (including a blood-stained stocking that he wore after receiving the stigmata). It is these details of life that I identify with most. The attached cloistered community of the Poor Clares has flourished for 700 years.
Outside the church is a large plaza that overlooks the Umbian valley with its patchwork farms and distant hills. By now we are hot, sticky, and tired from the early start we had to our day to get to Spello, which was preceded by the long drive from the Cinque Terre and La Spezia. Was that only yesterday?
Return to Soriano - The two-hour drive back to Soriano nel Cimino passed without event and we managed to find our way to the parking lot that is much closer to Palazzo. There weren't any free spots on the upper level so we head into the garage below and pay $1E for 24-hour parking.
You Say Margherita, I Say Caprese -We're not all that hungry, but we find a local place that sells pizza by the square called Bar Pizzeria Siria. There's quite a crowd in there and I hope by the time I get to the front I'll figure out how to buy the stuff. A couple of big-sized Italian ladies seem to be edging their way in front of me and I'm competitive enough not to let this happen so I edge them out with my elbows and shoulders.
The couple in front of us that are buying 10 squares of pizza finally grabbed their packet, so I step boldly forward and point to a pizza with tomato, basil, mozzarella, "Uno caprese, per favore." The guy looks at me with a quizzical expression, points to the wrong pizza and I repeat, "no, caprese." He has absolutely no idea what I'm saying and I'm thinking, "what's so difficult about understanding caprese?"
Then the two big ladies step in with a flurry of Italian to rescue me and use the word, "margherita." Oh, heavens. Yeah, yeah. Margherita, not caprese. Same ingredients, different dish. They laugh with me and I silently forgive them for being so pushy. We also get a piece of sausage and funghi (mushroom) pizza. As it is throughout Italy, we never see a pizza wheel. Everyone uses scissors to cut the thin - and limp - pizza.
Italian Takeout - I communicate that we want them wrapped for take out. Bob spots a 1/2 liter of cold diet Coke which looks really great. We pay less than $6E and are hoofing our way to the Palazzo. The pizza gets nuked in our microwave and we head downstairs to the little garden with our bottle of wine and Coke. It is quite pleasant down there and a delightful end to the day.
Buona Notte - Back upstairs we take baths, do laundry, and hit the hay in our four poster bed with the billowy side curtains while gazing up at the hand painted pattern on the ceiling. The heavy, paned (original hand-blown glass) windows and shutters are open to the clear, cool evening air.
We ended up in the Parking Mojano (Moiano?) lot in the southeast part of town. We bought our parking ticket but don't quite remember how much it was - maybe about $5E/day ($8 US). Rick Steves' book said there's an escalator - all we found was an elevator. There is still a bit of a hike up a hill and steps - not unusual for any Italian hill town. The streets are narrow, cobbled, and not really meant for cars although occasionally, a few sneak on through. It's quite hot this afternoon and the sun reflection is strong. Although I have applied sunscreen on my face and arms, I discover later later that my calves were overexposed - usually not a problem for my olive-toned color.
Trattoria da Erminio - Steves' book has recommended this restaurant as charming, with peaceful tables on a tiny square or indoor seating under a big, medieval, brick vault. Run by Federico and his family for three generations, they specialize in local meats cooked on an open-fire grill. Since it is close to 2 p.m. and restaurants close at 3 p.m., we head directly for lunch. Luckily, an outdoor table in shade opens up and Federico graciously sets it up. We share an antipasto of artichoke bottoms (1.80 E) and primi of thick spaghetti-like noodles dressed with olive oil and truffle sauce (11 E). Delicioso!
We both order the grilled meat plates with small portions each of sausage, lamb, chicken, and pork (12 E/each). It is served the Italian way with nothing else on the plate for decoration. The meat is smoky and wonderful. Bob gets a cortorno of tomatoes (7.6 E), and downed with a liter of ice cold aqua frizzante (fizzy water -2E) and 1/2 liter of red wine (6 E). It is a pleasant meal enjoyed on the quiet, shady corner of a little square. Our bill comes to 56.40E which includes the price for the privilege of eating outside for 4E. $70 U.S. for lunch is definitely spendy.
Tromping Assisi - Because we're in the neighborhood, we head toward Porta Perlici in the northwest end of town with hopes of seeing a Roman amphitheater. Along the way, we pass through a small plaza where a group of local women and men are gathered harvesting flower petals. It seems to be a fairly casual group - the primary goal is visiting. There are a couple of small floral designs that children and others are working on. It's actually quite refreshing to observe this little group nestled in conversation with the communal effort of doing something for Corpus Domini. What a difference this scene is from the large, very organized artists in Spello.
At the Porta Perlici location, we see some views of the "green heart of Italy," in the Umbrian hills. The ruined castle, Rocca Maggiore, is in the distance. It took awhile to find, but we eventually locate the Roman amphitheater from the first century, A.D. It's surrounded by homes and buildings built in the 13th and 14th centuries and the amphitheater doesn't feel like a big deal. Roman aqueducts abound throughout Italy - it's remarkable to see them and yet the Italians take these antiquities completely for granted. They are simply part of their life, grounding them intrinsically to their historical past.
Arches, Artisans and Antiquities - We try to stick to Rick Steves' recommended city walk and I think that, for the most part, we accomplish it with a wrong turn here and there. All the houses/apartments are stone and many have plaques that say "Pace Bene," which means pass in peace or good peace, or something wise like that. In the center, at the large, open Piazza del Comune, there is much Roman Forum history to behold with 16th century frescoes on the walls in the old market, Roman baths and cisterns, and the Temple of Minerva. There is a large fountain in the "square" and artisan and souvenir shops line the sides. The wide piazza is filled with stone and nary a bit of greenery in sight - thus making it very hot. There are plenty of nuns, sisters, brothers, and monks striding around that contribute to the sense of authenticity.
The six fluted Corinthian columns of the Temple of Minerva dominate the Roman forum in the Piazza. The Church of Santa Maria sopra ("over") Minerva was added in the ninth century. We pop into the blessedly cool interior that is predominantly blue and 17th-century Baroque gilt. Flanking the altar are the original Roman temple floor stones with drains for bloody sacrifices.
House of Shhhhhhhhhhhhh- We arrive at the Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi with no clear direction of where to go. Although Steves' book is very informative, the crowds of people and the choices of where to enter leave us confused. We enter through a grand doorway of the lower basilica and end up in the tomb where St. Francis' remains are above the altar in a stone box with iron ties. The basilica itself was built as a testament to St. Francis' life of peace and poverty. He would never have dwelt in such a structure as it would be a contradiction to his beliefs. Although St. Francis came from Assisi, he is considered more to be a saint of all Italy. The basilica was constructed (12th-13th centuries) and painted with representative fresco murals of the saint's life by some of the famous painters of the time such as Giotto and Lorenzetti.
The upper basilica is considered to be the first Gothic church in Italy and locals claim it has the oldest stained glass in Italy. Unlike most Catholic churches in Italy, this basilica is remarkable in the lack of gold and gilt everywhere. Instead, it is lined with murals by Giotto depicting the life of St. Francis. Nearly every surface is painted but there is more of a symmetrical or Moroccan feel to the paint patterns. It is lovely. The ceiling is painted with a seemingly simple and luminescent color of blue and green, mostly likely representing the heavens.
We don't spend much time contemplating the murals. They are beautiful and very significant. While we wander the church, every few minutes as the sound levels rose, a man - likely a brother or monk - intones in a very deep monotone, "Quiet. Quiet, please. Quiet," followed by a long, sonorous, "shhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh." Everyone respects the request for a few minutes until their voices crescendo again, and "the voice" once again admonishes everyone to pipe down. I began to wonder if it was a real person or simply a recording set to play at certain intervals. Because the basilica is a house of worship, there is a constant struggle between the prayerful faithful and the admiring tourists. In almost every church there is a section set aside "for prayer only," which is a nice touch for those who wish to do so.
Assisi's Patron Saint - We are doing our best to absorb every history-filled moment. St. Francis of Assisi might be the homeboy, but the patron saint of Assisi is Rufino (the town's first bishop, martyred and buried here in the third century). We pop in to take a look at his church, which has some peek holes into some ruins and a Roman cistern. This is all very cool stuff and - no disrespect intended - it looks pretty much like a bunch of golden dirt with stones and bricks. More remarkable to me was photographing two ladies out in the courtyard dressed in the most outlandish tourist getups I came across. You'll recognize them in the accompanying photos in their floral skirts, red and white crocheted sweater vests, backpacks and straw garden hats.
St. Francis' Groupie - The female counterpart, and biggest fan of St. Francis' philosophy was St. Clare. Both were from Assisi, and the 18-year old rich girl fell in love with 30-year old Francis' message. Clare left her distraught parents and adopted a life of abject poverty. She was eventually joined by other women who banded together as the Poor Clares. She spent the next 40 years of her life within her convent barefoot, vegetarian, and mostly silent. The Basilica of St. Clare was built in 1265. It is elegant in its grandness yet appropriately sparse.
At the opposite end of her crypt downstairs were relics I found most interesting. These included her rough robes, her long hair that she had cut off, a tunic she made, and some relics of St. Francis (including a blood-stained stocking that he wore after receiving the stigmata). It is these details of life that I identify with most. The attached cloistered community of the Poor Clares has flourished for 700 years.
Outside the church is a large plaza that overlooks the Umbian valley with its patchwork farms and distant hills. By now we are hot, sticky, and tired from the early start we had to our day to get to Spello, which was preceded by the long drive from the Cinque Terre and La Spezia. Was that only yesterday?
Return to Soriano - The two-hour drive back to Soriano nel Cimino passed without event and we managed to find our way to the parking lot that is much closer to Palazzo. There weren't any free spots on the upper level so we head into the garage below and pay $1E for 24-hour parking.
You Say Margherita, I Say Caprese -We're not all that hungry, but we find a local place that sells pizza by the square called Bar Pizzeria Siria. There's quite a crowd in there and I hope by the time I get to the front I'll figure out how to buy the stuff. A couple of big-sized Italian ladies seem to be edging their way in front of me and I'm competitive enough not to let this happen so I edge them out with my elbows and shoulders.
The couple in front of us that are buying 10 squares of pizza finally grabbed their packet, so I step boldly forward and point to a pizza with tomato, basil, mozzarella, "Uno caprese, per favore." The guy looks at me with a quizzical expression, points to the wrong pizza and I repeat, "no, caprese." He has absolutely no idea what I'm saying and I'm thinking, "what's so difficult about understanding caprese?"
Then the two big ladies step in with a flurry of Italian to rescue me and use the word, "margherita." Oh, heavens. Yeah, yeah. Margherita, not caprese. Same ingredients, different dish. They laugh with me and I silently forgive them for being so pushy. We also get a piece of sausage and funghi (mushroom) pizza. As it is throughout Italy, we never see a pizza wheel. Everyone uses scissors to cut the thin - and limp - pizza.
Italian Takeout - I communicate that we want them wrapped for take out. Bob spots a 1/2 liter of cold diet Coke which looks really great. We pay less than $6E and are hoofing our way to the Palazzo. The pizza gets nuked in our microwave and we head downstairs to the little garden with our bottle of wine and Coke. It is quite pleasant down there and a delightful end to the day.
Buona Notte - Back upstairs we take baths, do laundry, and hit the hay in our four poster bed with the billowy side curtains while gazing up at the hand painted pattern on the ceiling. The heavy, paned (original hand-blown glass) windows and shutters are open to the clear, cool evening air.
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