Palazzo Catalani - To stay at the Palazzo Catalani - a beautifully restored 17th century palace with 20 guest rooms - was an incredible experience. It really was an absolute dream to be here for two full weeks. Soriano nel Cimino was a beautiful, bustling, medieval, lively little town and the Palazzo was right in the middle of it - just a couple blocks from the central piazza. When we first arrived, it was dark and there was a large function going on at the church, so there was no extra parking although we snagged what we hoped was a valid parking spot. Pointing to the car, Kay asked a young man walking by, "es ok?" He replied in good English that it is ok for now because the police have gone home and won't be writing any tickets. As long as we move it early in the morning, we're ok. Since we plan to head out at 5 a.m. to L'Infiorate (flower festival) in Spello, we consider ourselves safe. Next, we try to find the Palazzo and we're not even sure we're even close. Just as Kay asks another resident, "Palazzo Catalani?" Bob finds the little wooden sign. (Everyone in Soriano knows the Palazzo.) We huff and puff up the steep drive/road and check in. Unfortunately, the cart driver just left so we will have to haul our bags up and down the hills ourselves. It's not like we haven't done it before! The next day, we find the parking lot where we park the car from here on out.
Our room is absolutely stunning with soaring, painted ceilings. There's a four-poster canopy bed with wispy curtains along with two large windows that have the original paned casements and shutters. There's two comfy sitting chairs, table and chairs, wardrobe, microwave and cupboard of cooking and eating utensils, and a makeup table/desk, plus a tiny mini bar kitchen with little sink, fridge, hot plate, and coffee maker. The modern gleaming bathroom has a large pedestal sink, toilet and bidet, and a seven-foot tub with shower. And it is all as clean and beautiful as can be with tons of charm and the feeling of a 17th century palace. The views from the main sitting area outside our room look out on the Orsini castle, town, and the soaring views beyond the valley. Everyone at the Palazzo speaks English very well but you won't find it as much in town.
Even though we're on the ground floor, our windows are high off walkways so we throw open both windows at night to let in the fresh, clear air. In the evening and the morning we look out the windows to see huge flocks of swallows swooping and diving in large groups as they they feed. There are two Palazzo kitties: Twinkletoes, the old black and white kitty, and Mr. Diamond (we call him DD), the young yellow kitty. We always bring cat treats and these two quickly learn to whom the hand that feeds them belongs.
On the ground floor is the entrance to the restaurant (we never ate there) and the small grassy back yard with covered patio and white lawn furniture. We ate many dinners down here of our takeout pizza and freshly made salad with local wine.
We've described the town a bit more in the "Tour of Soriano" entry. We spent a fair amount of time in the main square watching people of all ages. People live close together here and they take pleasure from hanging out with each other every day. This is definitely a family community. People seem to shop local and buy fresh food - produce, meat, cheese, bread - nearly daily from the tiny specialty stores. No chain stores here except a very small supermarket called COOP. Perhaps one regret is that we didn't have more time to try any of the restaurants. We usually got home late and wanted to relax in quiet on the lawn. We certainly learned where to buy our takeout pizza, though. A couple of times we walked through the tiny, twisting, alleyways, never knowing if we would find our way out (we always did). There are no sidewalks and pedestrians step out of the way or the cars go around. All streets are very narrow, often with 45-degree turns on blind corners. Everyone manages somehow.
Evening Opera - On our last evening, we have signed up to attend the opera. We know that Floriana will be performing and we are eager to see her. Plus, we've read many reviews about how great the performances are. Everyone gathers in the second floor sitting room and we are treated to the inaugural performance of an opera written by Floriana and friends. To think that they have written this - music, words, characters - is amazing. Indeed, the vocals and performance appears to be flawless. Even Anette (see Taste of Tuscia entry) has come to see the performance and she has tears running down her pretty face she is so moved. How can we be sitting here in Palazzo Catalani, in Soriano nel Cimino, in Italy, listening to these stunning voices?! It is truly a spectacular climax to our Italian dream of a trip.
Buona Notte e Arrivederci - The sun has set and the castle is lighted against the clear dark sky. The quirky air raid siren has finished for the day and the stars are out. No doubt people are hanging out in the piazza - because that is what they do - it has always been that way. The Italian residents in Soriano nel Cimino appear to live thoroughly modern lives in this quaint little town. They seem to be more connected to their past and history - I suppose, because they are living in it. And that's exactly what Americans find so delightful about Italy. With any luck, we'll be back!
Subscribe to:
Post Comments (Atom)
No comments:
Post a Comment