Down Day - After three long days in Rome, we're ready for a quiet day and sleep in a bit. It's time to stock up on a few grocery supplies so we check in at the reception with some questions and learn that it is market day in town.
Market Day in Soriano nel Cimino - With visions in our heads of typical U.S. farmer's markets filled with lovely produce, baked goods, and crafts in awning-covered stalls, we are eager to go. Kay is armed with the camera and Bob has our shopping bags tucked under his arm. As we head down the hill toward the square, what we see that the entire square is packed with big van style trucks. They have awnings cranked out over the displays which disappointingly consist of shoes, clothes, household goods, plastic ware, etc. Nevertheless, there are pictures to be made, ambiance to absorb, and people to watch. Everyone has come to town and there is much baby admiring, dog petting, and socializing going on. Although not a single produce display is to be found, the whole scene is still a feast for the eye.
Situation Produce - We decide that we might as well buy some salad supplies and fresh fruit. Since there are several produce shops (they are teensy, one-room affairs, about as big as a one-car garage) and we decide to buy at a different one than before. As we part the hanging strands of the doorway curtain (they keep out the bugs - which are no more than in the Pacific Northwest) and step in, we assess that we picked the most popular one with all the town ladies. There's really no room for both of us and Bob quickly exits stage right.
I (aka Kay) pick up a basket, load it with fresh lettuce and fruit items, and step toward the two women who are weighing everything and taking the money. But there is no line system here that I can discern and I can't figure out what to do. After all, I want to be a polite - not an ugly - American. I feel like a martian and all around me there are mutterings of "senora" this and "senora" that. I'm sure they're talking about me and I want desperately to exit, stage left. Finally I am nudged close enough to a counter and the cashier reaches out, takes my basket, and starts weighing everything (a few more senoras about that, too). She writes the price on a slip of paper, I hand over the money, and squeeze my way out of there. Bob wondered if he would ever see me again. After that experience, we head for the small COOP supermarket (where where is a system) and load up on yogurt, cheese, meat, bread, and a bottle of Brunello wine produced in Montepulciano.
Saturnia Hot Springs & Village of Pitigliano with Via de Cava Guiseppe - For the afternoon, we are going to drive around the Maremma region - about 45 minutes from Soriano - to look for Saturnia Hot Springs. We also plan to try and find some Etruscan cave-like walkways at the base of the village of Pitigliano. We head off to the car park area, stopping to give some cat treats and attention to the friendly kitty that hangs around there. The rest of the details deserve their own entry.
World Cup Soccer - It is the opening day for the World Cup in South Africa. First up: England vs. U.S.! In a couple of places in Soriano we have noticed areas set up with large flat screen televisions and seating. After our homemade dinner we head down to the main square and grab a table at the Café Centrale "bar" where we can see the TV. We're trying to be low key and blend in as much as possible. We order glasses of wine and complimentary snacks are also served (like mini baked cheese buns, crackers, etc.). There are a couple of guys at a table next to the TV. Apparently, they know a lot of people in town as there is a steady stream of folks stopping by. Unfortunately, they often stand in front of the screen. Bob isn't shy about voicing his complaint - "hey, hey!" The guy at the table finally gets the message as Bob makes his wishes known by tipping from side to side as if trying to see. After that, the guy makes a point of making his friends move and points toward Bob as if to say: "That American dude is trying to watch the game, bonehead, and you're blocking the screen."
Simon Says - A gregarious Italian boy about age 13 picks up on the fact that we're American and loudly bellows: "U-S-A, U-S-A!" accompanied by arm pumping. So much for trying to be discreet! The kid pulls up a chair, repeats the cheer, and proceeds to practice his English on us. "I speak English! My name is Simon. Who are you?" We tell him our names and answer some of his broken-English questions while another kid turns around and stares at Simon with an expression that hovers between amazement and disgust. A geek is a geek no matter what country you're in. You can just tell. But we're polite and laugh along with Simon. When he has had enough, he gets up to go, waves, and says, "hi!" We wave and say, "BYE!" We have a few minutes of watching the game in peace and Simon shows up again with a repeat arm-pumping performance. This time he brings a group of his buddies so he can show off. He's still a geeky kid but I give him credit for being personable and trying out his English. When he leaves this time, he grins and correctly says a cheeky, "bye!"
Fashion Show Fundraiser - It's a beautiful, warm, star-filled night. It feels like the entire town has turned out to hang around the square. Once in a while a car sneaks through but the main traffic is on two or four legs, or in strollers. In fact, next to our group of white plastic chairs and tables at Café Centrale, a stage is being set up along with a large sound system. Lots of little girls merrily dash across the stage turning cartwheels or chasing each other. What is going to happen here, we wonder? A dance? A concert? About 9 p.m., the crowd is thick- lots of families and kids. The rock music starts and kids of varying ages and abilities show up for a gymnastic/dance routine, some of them twirling ribbons. Lots of mistakes and strictly amateur - probably kids from the local gymnastics center.
After about 15 minutes, sexy rock music starts and out strut four teenage girls striking modeling poses, turning this way and that. This group is followed by several more groups all doing the same thing. These aren't professional models by any means but mere local model wannabes. There's even a gal in her 40s. They all start out in swimwear (yikes) and progress through many clothing changes. They always appear in the same group pacing up, then back, from side to side, spin, turn, cross over, very serious (models don't smile) and back up the stage and out - likely for another clothing change. The clothes aren't exactly runway fashion and I would guess they are their own.
The soccer game ends in a tie; the models come out for a final bow. Photos would be inappropriate and attention gathering so our memories will have to serve for as long as it can of this precious slice of beautiful life in the middle of the town square on a lively family-filled night in Soriano nel Cimino.
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