Orvieto - June 12, 2010

Claim to Fame - Today we are going to the Umbrian town of Orvieto, about 45 minutes north up the A1 from Soriano.  Like many villages, the "old town" sits 1,000 feet above the valley floor on a huge chunk of tufa rock. Orvieto has three popular claims to fame:  cathedral, Classico wine, and ceramics. Once again, heeding Rick Steves' advice, we park down below in a lot and buy an $18E Carte Unica combo ticket that allows us five hours of parking, a ride up the short funicular up to the top, transportation around town, and entrance to the top sites, including the Underground Orvieto Tour. After the funiucular, we hop a mini shuttle bus that drops us off near the Piazza del Duomo and beginning of the tourist center with lots of gorgeous pottery and ceramic shops. But there is no time to stop and shop as the next Underground Tour in English is about to begin.

Duomo Distractions -While waiting for the tour to begin, things are happening at the spectacular gothic Duomo. It seems that a wedding has just occurred. There is the lovely bride, Eleanora, in her white dress with the handsome groom, Emanuele and all their family. Professional photos are being captured as well as many by gawking tourists - including me. I wander back to join Bob and the waiting tour group when all of a sudden a group of adorable children in white outfits file out of the Duomo. They gather with the priest on the steps for countless photo opps by adoring parents to celebrate what is likely their first communion. At the risk of getting separated from the tour, I dash once more to take photos of this charm and then run to catch up with the tour group.

Underground Tour -Speaking British-accented English, our tour guide takes us down a wide gravel path descending to a lower level. Although the light is bad, the scenes of a picturesque castle in the valley are too good to ignore for the lens. Eventually, we tuck underground into a series of caves and tunnels as the guide weaves an hour-long archeological history tour of medieval and Etruscan life. There's an ancient olive press and an impressive 130 foot well shaft, as well as small squares carved into the walls for pigeon roosts - which provided meat and eggs for the villagers.

Trattorio del'Moro Arrone - A family-run bistro recommended by Steves, we try the recommended "nidi," folds of fresh pasta enveloping gooey, warm Pecorino cheese sweetened with honey. They had me at "folds" and it lives up to the promise. Bob orders tortellini with Pecorino and arugula and I go for chewy thick spaghetti-like noodles called pici tossed with porcini mushrooms and grated truffle. To die for - both of them. We down it all with a half carafe of white Orvieto Classico Biggi wine and top it off with a white chocolate mousse and fresh berries. Wow!

Calorie Burner - Obviously, we have to keep moving in order to utilize those calories we packed away so we head back up to see the famed Duomo - which, of course - is stunning. The exterior is a bit unusual in that it is a checkerboard of black and white stone. The nave is less spacious and cluttered with Baroque décor, elaborate tombs, and the art than many Italian churches but it is nonetheless spectacular. Like all churches, it is free to enter although the side chapels will often charge a fee to enter. We are so overwhelmed with churchly beauty that we never pay extra to see more. We do, however, pay money to burn candles and put contributions in the offering boxes.

Ceramics Alley - With a love for painted pottery, we wander in and out of the many shops. The colors and designs are such a treat for the eye. It isn't cheap although that doesn't stop us looking for bargains. I wanted to bring home all sorts of beautiful souvenirs. Often I see things I'd love to have but they become a want and not a need. Plus, I wonder if perhaps I'll find similar items at a less expensive cost - perhaps in Deruta, that is reported to be the source of much beautiful pottery - and a planned day trip. Rather than make the reader wait to know whether I ever found any good bargains, I tell you this: there are no bargains in painted pottery or ceramics to be had. And, Italy isn't like the U.S. where you might find the same item for a cheaper price. No, indeed. If you find something you like in Italy, you'd better buy it because it is likely not mass produced and you won't find any similar items anywhere else.

Which is why we left Italy without the darling water and wine pitchers we passed up in Spello that were truly a bargain. Live and learn. We pick up some salt/pepper shakers, an olio bottle, and a spoon holder. They are all beautiful and easy to pack - and left me hungering for more.

Hiking the Ramparts - To work off lunch and some of those "folds," we decide to take a hike around the city on the "Rupe" which is touted as a peaceful paved path that completely circles the town at the base of the sheer golden-colored tuscia cliff on which it sits - per Rick Steves. We find our way down on one of the access points and find that it is, truly, peaceful and fairly level. There's no one but us down there. The path is supposed to last about three miles but we swear we've gone barely a mile when we come to a fork. We take one and it comes to a dead end. The other choice seemed to head downhill and likely not in the direction we want. So we retrace our steps back up to town where we end up on some ramparts that impart lovely views of Umbria countryside.

After wandering around a bit more in Orvieto, we head back for Soriano and a salad and pizza - dinner on the cheap in the garden with wine.