Rome - Day One - June 8, 2010

Orte to Rome - We're up at 5:45 a.m. for our first day in Rome. We want to arrive at the Orte train station by 8:30 a.m. in case parking is an issue. Like getting anywhere in Italy, the station route isn't exactly straightforward and the GPS helps a lot, along with the map from Palazzo. About 25 minutes later, we pull into a parking spot but can see how difficult it could be if we arrived much later. All-day parking tickets are about $1E vended from an easy-to-use dispenser.

At the ticket office, we can buy a 3-day ($25E) or 7-day ($33E) sequential pass that covers all the train and transportation in Rome. Three sequential days in Rome with our guide using the Roma Pass (which must also be used in 3 sequential days and covers all Rome transportation except the Orte commute train) have been planned. Our Vatican tour will take place eight days hence. The 3-day pass is cheaper than individual daily tickets and it covers all transportation in Rome, so it works best. We'll buy an individual ticket for the fourth trip.

There's no problem catching the right train to Rome Termini. (There is only one stop just before it.) We're there on time (10:30 a.m.) and spot the ex-pat guide, Justin, with whom we've arranged via email to take us around Rome. He was recommended to us by a former Palazzo guest (Vickie is a realtor in Florida) that Kay met through email exchanges.

Roman Guide is a Smart Move - Being independent do-it-your-selfers, we were reluctant to budget for a personal guide in Rome. However, at the end of the three days, we saw far more things with far less stress and hassle than on our own. Like sheep, we follow Justin all around hopping on and off the right buses, metro stops, across the streets and down the best shortcuts with nary a care in the world.

Although an ex-pat American, Justin speaks fluent Italian and definitely knows his way around. Plus, he tells us all sorts of tidbits about life in Italy. James has just enough knowledge about the sites to help us understand the significance of each but we aren't overwhelmed with factoids. Part of the agreement when working with Justin was providing all his transportation, entry fees, and meals in Rome. He asks only for an unspecific donation to his Christian mission, which provides refugee relief. He is an angel sent to bless our journey; we hope our donation was fair.

The Colosseum is our first stop to claim our Roma Passes. Oh, no! It is closed until noon for cleanup from a previous evening's event. If we weren't with James, this would have thrown us for a loop. Instead, he takes us past all the fake and fierce photo-opp-gladiators-for-hire to the Forum entrance to try and claim the Roma Passes. No luck there, either.

Basilica of San Clemente - On the fly, Justin reverses the day's schedule and we head off for the Church of San Clemente, which has three levels. A young man greets us at the doorway and Justin brushes past him saying that he is not official and is just looking for a handout. It costs $5E to enter for each of us.

The bottom two floors have been excavated to reveal a subterranean pagan level from the 1st century at the bottom, and a 4th century medieval Christian basilica. The top most basilica on the ground floor was constructed in the 12th century. It is also the first time we hear Justin quip, "The Catholics really like their relics." Obviously, Justin isn't of Catholic persuasion.  And, lest any readers are offended by his remark, remember that the gospel according to St. Matthew proclaims: "Judge not, that ye be not judged...For in the same way you judge others, you will be judged."

Colosseum - The Colosseum is now open and Justin guides us to the no-line window to collect our Roma Passes. These passes zip us past everyone else in line. Justin explains that the Colosseum is held together with brick. It is referred to as "new" whereas the stone blocks are original. Some of that brick is rather old, though. To think that we are here at last, walking around a structure built in 70-80 A.D. is such a privilege and overwhelming. Because we have arrived ahead of many crowds, there is ample opportunity for great photos and views. There's a good exhibit of gladiator garb, armor, helmets, and assorted weaponry plus a five-minute film that gives a flavor of the place in days gone by. It has me wondering - if I lived back then - whether I would have willingly observed the bloody games that took place.

Palatine Hill and Roman Forum - On the way to the Roman Forum entry is the Arch of Constantine, erected c. 315. It is the largest of only three such arches to survive in Rome today. The other two are the Arch of Titus and Arch of Septimius Severus, both in the nearby Forum. They were all erected to commemorate significant battle victories.

Justin quickly gets us entered into the Forum and hoofing it up to Palatine Hill. We view lots of ancient half buildings, walls, columns, and marble remains of original floors that we tromp across just like the Romans did. Imagine that.

The Roman Forum is located in a valley that is between the Palatine hill and the Capitoline hill. It originally was a marsh, but the Romans drained the area and turned it into a center of political and social activity.  The Forum was the marketplace of Rome and also the business district and civic center. It was expanded to include temples, a senate house and law courts. When the Roman Empire fell, the Forum became forgotten, buried and was used as a cattle pasture during the Middle Ages. Even if it has been rebuilt, it is pretty spectacular with huge columns, buildings, and stone chunks lying around. The house of the vestal virgins, assorted arches, columns, the steps where Julius Caesar was murdered. Amazing to imagine that Caesar and his sidekick stars walked through these areas. It is hot today and the Forum is dusty and full of loose rock and gravel. Closed toe shoes and protection against the sun with hats, long-sleeved shirts and umbrellas are very common.

A Bite at Bibo's - The temperature is rising and we head to a favorite restaurant of Justin that he has selected on our behalf. As we cross through a major intersection (with crosswalk), he points out a round section in the center that can be raised for a traffic cop to stand on and direct traffic. He also explains not to be timid crossing the street as it is the law that cars must stop for pedestrians in crosswalks. Hmmm...that's the law in the states, too, but mistakes get made.

At Bibo's (Piazza dei SS Apostoli N. 58), we head for an inside table and the blissful A/C. Justin  recommends the grilled mozzarella for an appetizer ($6.50E) and it is definitely yummy: crisp outside and creamy inside. I order a fabulous lasagna ($8E), Bob goes for Pasta Carbonara Amatricia (spicy spaghetti with pancetta and chilies-$7.50E), and Justin has pasta with porcini mushrooms ($10E). We quickly down two liters of acqua frizzante ($7E). Our total bill is $39E and James instructs us to leave about $3E on the table ($1E/person) even though it is not mandatory.

King of Italy  -  After lunch, we wander by this massive white monument - also known as the Altar of the Fatherland - that is attributed to Vittorio Emanuele II of Savoia, first king of Italy. It occupies a site between the Piazza Venezia and the Capitoline Hill. The monument was designed by Giuseppe Sacconi in 1895 and was completed in 1935. To build it, some of prehistoric Capitoline Hill was destroyed and many feel it is too ostentatious.

Capitoline Hill - Adjacent to the "Vittoriano" is Capitoline Hill. We climb Michelangelo's stairs to the top and the twin Capitoline Museum buildings, which we will visit on our next trip. At the back side are wonderful overlooks and photo opps of the Roman Forum. In one of the buildings, Justin explains that brides and grooms get their wedding certificates. It is not uncommon to see a long line of them with adjacent carriages and limos. Unfortunately, we don't get to see any.

3 Coins in the Fountain - Trevi Fountain is next on the list. "Taming of the water" is the theme of this huge Baroque water art. There is so much to look at and take in that it is simply impossible to do in one visit. Justin took a picture of us throwing our requisite coins in the fountain, thus ensuring our return to Rome. We pop in for a quick look at San Claudio Church which is - naturally - ornate and lovely.

Piazza Navona - The lovely Piazza Navona was an important square for "games" in ancient times. During more recent times, it was known for a place where artists painted and sold their own work. Today, it is all commercial booths selling the same old art one finds all over Rome. Mimes are available for photo opps and watching them is fun. There are two gigantic fountains by famous artists where people sit and rest and watch life trickle by. The square is also used by many locals and their families for escaping the confines of apartments.  We also browse through the Church of Nostra Signora del Sacro Cuore (Our Lady of the Sacred Heart). As we wander through the side streets, we pick our way through a large group of men in suits outside a formal building all having a smoke and drinking coffee. Justin says they are legislators taking a break. I'm impressed that we can simply wander through these people.

Spanish Steps - Next, we cruise by the infamous Spanish Steps with Piazza di Spagna at the base. There is one of many free potable drinking spigots here and we fill our water bottles with the promise from Rick Steves that it is safe to do so. The Steps are packed with people and it is getting late, so we don't take time to sit on them. There are many ritzy designer shops in the area that we wander past without even the slightest temptation. Who needs that stuff anyway? But James points out some of his favorites along the way.

Gelato Time - After our big lunch, the only thing we have room for is gelato. We decide it will do just fine as a meal replacement for dinner. Justin declares that we are "his" kind of people! He takes us to the very best place in Rome for gelato. Old Bridge Gelato is not particularly well known by the tourist crowd and guidebooks so it is a real find. Wow! Huge $2E cups with three flavors. We pass on the offer for whipped cream. Kay discovers the flavor, cassata, which is slightly orange flavored and mixed with finely minced candied dried fruit. James declares it is his favorite. Nocciola (hazelnut) is fabulous and Bacio (a famous candy from Perugia) a touch more decadent, while the coconut is studded with bits - which Bob almost always gets. Justin says he has ridden the train 90 minutes just to get some. We head across the street to sit on a waist high concrete wall that abuts a tiny bit of lawn at a bus transfer location...and savor the best gelato in the world.

Home Again - We walk to the Metro A stop and head back to Rome Termini, where Justin sees that we get on the right train. We're in Orte at 8:30 and head directly back to the Palazzo where bath, laundry, and bed are the order of the day. Grateful to hit the sack, we open wide our heavy sashed windows to the cool quiet of the village and the dark Italian sky. All is quiet. Everyone in Soriano has gone to bed.