The Day Begins with a Birk Hunt - Breakfast at Hotel Nuova Italia is wonderful with yogurt, muesli, bananas, plus one frothy cappuchino followed by a chaser of one Americano nero (black coffee). Kay again spends some time on the internet, determined to get the blog and Picasa photos uploaded. Bob is irritated at having to sit inside and wait. Who can blame him? Florence awaits! I had a major sore foot problem yesterday and now I'm determined to buy some Birkenstocks I saw in a nearby shoe store. We tromp there and, oh no! The shoe store is closed - after all, it's Wednesday.
To the Pitti Palace - We head on down toward the major sites past the Duomo. Hordes of tourists are out and it is impossible to tell the difference between Americans, Germans, Italians, Spaniards, etc. Many times throughout the trip we were asked by other Americans or Brits whether we spoke English. It's not that we looked different from Americans, it's just that you really can't stereotype cultures or ethnicities.
I take a picture of a shoe store called "Pusateri's" for a Vancouver friend with that last name. Across the way, it looked like there might be a wedding happening at a church; we hang out in case a bride appears but get tired of waiting. We wander through the huge Piazza Signoria where groups of tourists are thronging and gazing at the fake David and the mammoth Neptune fountain in front of the Palazzo Vecchia, adjacent to the Uffizi Museum. An orchestra is playing a classical piece in the Loggia that adds to the atmosphere. But, we really need to head to the Pitti Palace where the plan is to view art and the palace.
Over Ponte Vecchio and Up to Pitti - Over the Ponte Vecchio we tromp. The much photographed bridge is crammed with stores selling gold, gold, and more gold. Jewelry isn't our thing so we barely give them a glance. A few minutes later and we're at the Pitti. The line isn't long to buy tickets and we are quickly inside and viewing a special Caravaggio exhibit. After that, we proceed through room after room of art - some by people we're familiar with (Rubens) and others who painted incredible stuff during the Renaissance period (I manage to sneak in a photo or two when the guard is either asleep or talking to another guard. What a boring job they have). We also look at room after room of incredible furniture and wall and ceiling décor. They painted everything in those days - and very well, I might add. It was a profitable time in which to be an artist. Every single cathedral and palace is painted, adorned with plaster figures, and gold leafed from top to bottom. In this, they are nearly all the same with degrees of subject matter and ornateness. It is truly breathtaking.
A Bit Drippy - It was a little overcast but too warm for coats when we left in the morning. It sure didn't feel like rain. But, while we were there in the Pitti, oh my, did it pour and thunder. Oh, dear. I'm in Birk sandals and neither of us brought our raincoats. An hour later, it seems to have lessened so we only get a little wet as we leave the Pitti and go back over the Ponte Vecchio. And then the buckets dumped. Crowds of plastic pastel coated tourists pass us. How we wish we could find a plastic poncho for ourselves. A vendor tries to sell us a couple of umbrellas coming down from $10E for two to $2. I've heard that these things are worthless so we refused the bargain. Another vendor finds us and I negotiate two raincoats for $9E. They bring great relief as the rain is now coming down with a vengeance. In my Birk sandals, I try to find the high spots on the cobblestones to avoid puddles.
Fratelli Lunch Stop - We managed to find our way to the infamous Fratelli brothers for $3.50E simple sandwiches (a slice of meat and soft cream cheese) and glasses of wine, munching them while standing in the street under our ponchos. When finished with our wine, we place the glasses (yes, real ones) on the shelves hanging up for collecting them. Again, there is lots of crunchy bread to feed the ever-present pigeons.
We are able to stay under cover for awhile as we head toward Santa Croce Cathedral to kill some time before our Uffizi Gallery reservation at 4 p.m. We pay our fee to enter Santa Croce (about $6E each) and wander around looking at tons of fancy tombs and murals on all the surfaces. It's still raining but we must head to the Uffizi.
Uffuzi Art Gallery - First, we claim our ticket reservation, then we go stand in line to get in. We pick up our tickets and head to door #2 entry. In less than 5 minutes we are hoofing it up two flights of stairs (not a place for the other abled). We pop in our Rick Steves podcast to guide us through the place, which is organized chronologically beginning with the early one-dimensional religious stuff up to the recent art of 300 years ago (Rembrandts, Rubens, and other guys). Lots of marble sculptures, too, by Michelangelo, Bernini, etc.). I tried to take a photo of the beautiful ceiling in the outer corridor hallways and got caught by the photo police. Guy was right behind me and scared the heck out of me. My feet have had it and I move through a lot faster than Bob, who savors all the art along the way. I arrange to meet him in the gift shop where a guard takes pity on me and insists that I sit in her chair.
On the Trail of Dinner and Birks - Voila! The sun has come out while we were inside. So nice not to be dodging mud puddles. We decide to head out for Trattoria Sabatino, a restaurant recommended by both Steves and Jack, an email pal who I corresponded with for travel hints about Italy. This is supposed to be an inexpensive and strictly local hangout in the Oltrarno area, across the Arno River from all main tourist sites.
Off we go heading toward Ponte Vecchio. Oh, but wait! There's a store with the Birks I wanted on display. Rein in the horses! As it turns out, they have my size, they fit, and the price is less than what I would pay stateside. With new Birks in hand, off we go to Trattoria Sabatino.
The sun is getting lower in the sky casting a golden glow on the Arno and Ponte Vecchio so we stop - along with locals and other tourists - to take memorable photos from bridges further down the river. Finally, after winding through neighborhoods and feeling conspicuous as the only tourists in sight, we find the Trattoria. Obviously, since the place is recommended by Rick Steves, the owners are used to seeing clumpy tourists appear on their doorstep. One outspoken young woman/cammamiere (waitress) interprets a couple of selections from the sparse menu. We both end up with noodles (spaghetti and tagliatelle - flat egg noodles) with ragu (meat sauce), insalata misto (mixed salad), a half liter of red (rosso vino de la casa) house wine, and a dolce (dessert) to share that is delicious. The total is about our cheapest meal (except for those we skip) of $12E. Besides the hearty food, we have been entertained by the Italian families who have come in for their own dinner. What a charming experience!
Buona Notte - On the way back to Hotel Nuova we hit up Gelateria Carrozze for a Steves-recommended gelato stop. [Honestly, except for Gelateria Grom and Bridge Town in Rome (which I will describe later), all the gelaterias seem to be the same. You get 2 to 3 flavors in a medium size cup for $2.30 to $3 E.]
Once again, I try to upload items to the blog, download the day's photos, and hit the sack long after Bob is deep into sleep.
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