Goodbye, Cinque Terre - There's always a bit of anxiety in the mornings when trying to meet a schedule. We need to catch a certain regional train to La Spezia in order to pick up the Hertz rental car. Maurizio has given us some instant cappuccino to make in the special machine downstairs in the lobby so at least we get a hit of caffeine before leaving the room. It's hard to say goodbye to this beautiful place and we wish we'd had more time to just sit and enjoy the patio. But we always had places to go and other wonderful sites to see. We stopped for one last cappuccino in the little café in Manarola. We're off in good time to catch the 9:30 a.m. train to La Spezia.
Hello, LaSpezia - About 30 minutes later, after a quick train stop in Riomaggiore, we're in La Spezia searching for a taxi. By following the taxi signs through the train station, we easily hook up with one for the $10E ride. Given the location of Hertz, one would not have walked this distance, which is something we had pondered back home.
Hertz gave us a good price AND they were open on Saturday. Check-in goes smoothly, especially since we have reserved over the internet. There are no additional sales pitches to buy insurance coverage. Our car is a little yellow Fiat Panda, manual drive (as most are) with A/C but no radio (not a big deal). Bob will be the driver so he orients himself to the car's operation and gets the GPS set up. He has an international driver's permit but, throughout our trip, he never has to show it. There was much discussion on the Rick Steves travel forums whether these are necessary or not. Later in the journey, our Rome guide, Justin, tells us they are required by Italian law. If we were ever stopped, it is better to be safe than sorry, especially since all it requires is a visit to AAA, a passport photo (which AAA can take) and $15. I wonder how it works if a person simply rents a car for a day trip and has no international license.
Navigating Italian Roads and Drivers - Getting on to the autostrada from Hertz is super easy. Shortly, we are directed to exit and pick up a ticket at a large toll station. For drivers exiting the autostrada there are lanes with automated systems for vehicles with passes, as well as those for various payment options (cash, credit card, etc.). We pull over to puzzle through the system and finally select the correct lane to pick up a biglietto (ticket). The ticket automatically pops out when we pull up. We grab it, the gate raises, and off we head to the A12 also known as the E80 or S1, and more commonly called the Aurelia autostrada entrance. (The Aurelia was recommended by Palazzo Catalani as a beautiful drive. In the end, it was also slower than the scenery warranted.)
The autostrada has two lanes: one is for driving (right lane) and one for passing (left lane). One does not cruise in the left lane (unlike the U.S.) as you will find an Italian tailgating you at 80 mph, which doesn't feel safe. There seems to be a very low minimum speed in the right lane, so we become adept at passing. Traffic seldom feels heavy during the times we're on the road. While the roads are all hard surfaced (asphalt, concrete), they are often in need of repair and very rough (but not nearly as bad as in Costa Rica!). In the dinkymobile with the narrow wheelbase, zero suspension, and small tires, we feel every crevice. It makes for a tiring ride.
Blessings and Bleeps of the GPS - Meanwhile, the GPS is bleating out directions pronouncing Italian street names badly and unintelligibly. We usually have to look at the screen to figure out what it is saying. Even then, it doesn't matter whether we have the street name or not as Italian roads are signed about five percent of the time. Most of that time, the GPS and Italy don't agree on the name. The GPS will give the official name while the sign might list the colloquial/local name (which happens in the U.S., too). We have brought a detailed Michelin map #563 (central Italy) with us and, most of the time, we use the print map along with the GPS. Many times we look at the map to select a different way point other than what the GPS is selecting in order to take the best route. Bob has pre-set many of our destinations prior to leaving the states, which helps a lot. He has also printed out Google street maps, especially for some of the small communities. Gaining entry to the hill towns along the charming - but narrow and winding - roads, plus accessing parking areas, can be quite confusing and frustrating.
The GPS has also been downloaded with the speed control camera locations and it emits a constant series of bell-dongs that warn us of upcoming cameras. Even though we have a hard time spotting these things, we've heard they're supposed to be very obvious and visible. The Italian drivers seem to ignore them completely as they pass us in supersonic mode. I'm sure we're being ultra cautious and perhaps a bit slow as we try to go the speed limit - about 130 kph on the autostrada. Sometimes the speed slows for no logical reason, going down to 90 up to 120 down to 80 up to 110 within the span of a couple of miles on a straightaway. We seem to be the only ones who adhere to them.
Roadside Autogrills - One of the conveniences along the Italian road is the frequency of big gas station centers with snack/food service or restaurants called autogrills. There is almost always a road sign announcing them. Most have decent food as well as the usual soda and snack options. The toilette facilities are usually clean and stocked with paper and typically missing the toilet seats. Apparently, Italians don't consider them hygienic but I find them awkward to use. On occasion, we've run into the trough-in-the-floor model. I avoid these altogether although Bob says that's all there is in China. Ick. I guess I need a manual for using these things.
Field Trip to Volterra - We've decided to visit one Tuscan town on the way to the timeshare. Volterra is about 25 miles east of the Aurelia. The drive on the two-lane country-ish road is stunning as we go through the Tuscan countryside. We come to learn that it takes much longer to travel these roads than it would in the U.S. as the speed averages about 35 mph. It takes us an hour or so as we wind through little bergs, negotiate roundabouts, and snail along behind a tractor or slowpoke. Or, we are the slowpoke and all of a sudden an Italian noses our rear zipping around us just before a curve.
Finally, encircled by impressive walls and topped by a fortress, Volterra looms into sight from its hilly location high above rich farmland. Between the GPS, Rick Steves' map, and a Google street map printout, we come into some areas that are noted for parking with a standardized royal blue P. One must be careful to note whether the parking is free or paid and whether you can park for more than an hour (some parking is strictly short term). There isn't any ticket dispenser but I spot a woman sitting at a card table down the hill. When asked, she is the person from whom we buy the parking ticket - about $4E.
Visiting Volterra - We head in through a massive city gate hoping that we're going in the right direction. Sometimes it's hard to tell because there are so few street signs. But, wandering is the name of the game of this vacation and we work our way through the streets pondering our lunch stop since it is about 2:30 p.m. and many restaurants might be closing. We tried to find one of the Rick Steves restaurants but got lost. Instead, we selected a nice outdoor lunch spot in a park setting where we each ordered a salad ($3E ea) and a sausage/gorgonzola pizza to share ($7E). Because the pizzas are on a very thin crust with thin toppings, a single pizza really could be eaten by one person. They aren't nearly as bulky and filling as any American style pizza would be. We also ordered a half liter of sparking white wine ($6E) that was quite nice for the warm afternoon.
Fortified by lunch, we wander the town stopping to gaze down at a Roman amphitheater. There are lots of craft shops selling items (lamps, candle holders, chimes, etc.) made out of alabaster. It is beautiful work but any item would be heavy to haul around or take home. We part with many euros in one shop that makes glass dishes that are colorful with gold leaf on them for some gifts. We really liked this low-key, attractive and quaint, non touristy town (after visiting Montepulciano and Pienza later on, we would come back to Volterra).
Home Stretch to Palazzo Catalani - After the slow and scenic drive from Volterra back to the Aurelia, we get serious about heading to the timeshare. Unfortunately, the speedy A12 dwindles down to what is now probably the E80 (a two-lane highway) that has a low speed limit and passes by or through lots of small towns where the speed limit drops even more. Still, there isn't much traffic.
Daylight is running out and the stores are soon closing. I know we'll need a grocery store stop; the stores typically close at 8 p.m. We turn off at Tarquinia and happen to stumble into a COOP (not as in co-op) supermarket with only 10 minutes to run around in a strange store grabbing whatever we can find. We rescue a couple of pieces of takeout pizza - just before it gets dumped in the trash - for our dinner plus some wine, fruit, yogurt, muesli, crackers, cheese, and instant cappuccino mix. We were the last customers out of the store. Whew!
Back on the E80 and we're pondering the location and choice for the right exit. We have directions from Angelo at Palazzo Catalani that seem straightforward, but we discover they aren't as specific as we need them to be, and we never saw a sign with Viterbo on it. (Palazzo: In regards to your request, take the Aurelia and exit after Tarquinia, heading towards Monte Romano.)
Luckily, we hit the correct turnoff and head east on the road to Soriano nel Cimino, traveling adjacent to an ancient Roman aqueduct that is turning golden in the sunset. Sure wish we could pull over for a photo opp but road shoulders are hard to find and we need to keep going while it is still light. Alas, we get to Viterbo, the largest city before Soriano in the dark. Our road ends and the directions to get on the autostrada baffle us. We get lost...and worried....
(Palazzo: Go thru the town of Monte Romano and keep going straight, follow the signs that indicate Vetralla and Viterbo. The road you will be on ends at the SS2 Cassia, so that's where you need to turn left and continue towards Viterbo. At a certain point on the Cassia as you are following the road you will get on the expressway which will say ORTE, get on the expressway headed towards ORTE and get off at the SORIANO-CHIA exit.)
We wander all through the town of Viterbo having missed the turnoff to the autostrada. After a tour of town, the GPS gratefully gets us out of there and onto the autostrada.
Credit Card Hijack - Bob wants to make sure we have enough gas for tomorrow morning as we will be heading out for Spello about 5 a.m. He pulls into a closed and unattended gas station. However, it is common to be able to get gas using your credit card even if a station is closed. Unfortunately, the machine grabbed our credit card and wouldn't release it back to us. We could see just the edge of it and, once again, we are grateful that the answer appeared to use my tweezers to get it out. Whew! We didn't know what we would do as we couldn't leave it there and there was no one we could call.
Last Leg to Soriano - Getting the credit card back in hand felt like the best thing that ever happened to us the relief was so huge. Next, however, was traveling the maze of roads to get to Palazzo Catalani, our timeshare home for the next two weeks. We were afraid of missing an exit and there was a sign that pointed to Soriano nel Cimino so we took it. Plus, the hilltop castle was lighted up like a beacon in the night and all we wanted to do was head for it. It turns out we should have taken the next exit as this one was the back way in along a dark, bumpy and winding road. It felt like we were going through an evil forest where a tree was going to reach out and snag us.
Of course, since we didn't take the correct exit, none of the directions into town matched up. We wound our way slowly up into town seemingly on one-lane streets they were so clogged with parked cars and people walking all over the cobblestoned road through town. There was no parking available in front of the Municipio were we had been directed to park. There seemed to be a lot of activity going on and parking was at a premium.
(Palazzo: After you exit, follow the signs for Soriano. The road will take you right into Soriano, as you enter the city limits you will be driving uphill, follow the road until you come to a big square, there is a Total gas station on the right. Go around the turnabout to the left and continue driving uphill until you reach the main square, you'll see a church on your right and a pastry shop on your left. Further on in the main square on your right you'll see Caffè Centrale, turn right and drive uphill until you see the Municipio (City Hall). Park your car temporarily in front of the Municipio and walk up Via Montecavallo and you've arrived at the resort.)
Hunting for Palazzo Catalani - We found a parking spot and weren't sure it was legal but shoehorned ourselves in (in the Italian way). A young couple was walking by so I tried asking if "car ok?" The fellow replied in pretty good English, "Is ok until 9 a.m. in the morning. Then police give ticket." Oh, boy, not exactly comforting. But we don't even know if we're close to the Palazzo so decide to try and find it on foot. We're almost ready to give up when I ask a lady where it is. Naturally, Bob finds a sign simultaneously. We later discover that EVERYBODY knows where the Palazzo is. And now, we do, too.
It's tucked steeply up around two tight and tiny corners, nearly as bad as the hike to Aria di Mare, our room in Manarola but not as long. We stumble into the lobby where we're greeted by GianPaolo (JohnPaul - like the Pope, he says). Now we have to trudge back and retrieve our luggage from the car. Although it isn't that far to go, we're tired and the hills are steep. We also decide to leave the car where it is instead of finding the correct parking lot as we suspect it would be full anyway. Besides, we will be leaving at 5 a.m. so the police won't even be out of bed, much less handing out tickets. Eventually, we are safely in our room, eating the cheap pizza we bought at the COOP in Tarquinia. We have cut the evening way too close, for tomorrow is an early day to L'Infiorata in Spello.
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